Airbox flapper removal

Hey everyone, So I have yet to purchase a programmer for the bike, but it's coming down there road, but in the mean time what are a few mods I can do to help it breath that won't require a programmer??

Ive been reading into simple mods i.e. air box flapper removal, and the AIS removal, anyone know if either of these would require a programmer?

thanks

The bike is already lean, so if you install an after market exhaust and open up the airbox, etc. it'll only get worse if you don't install a programmer first.

Evol wrote:

The bike is already lean, so if you install an after market exhaust and open up the airbox, etc. it'll only get worse if you don't install a programmer first.

Misconception.

The bike is not overall lean... it is actually running rich at WOT and higher RPM's

There is a lean spot in the lower RPM range where I suspect they test for emissions.

My bike has airboxmods, and new exhaustsystem, no programmer and about 12.000km actual on it.

So go ahead..

You're not going to run it lean enough to damage anything, that's for sure. WOT is rich from the factory for safety, and getting more air in and out brings it closer to being correct, but it's still a tad rich. It will be leaner at idle, off idle transition, and cruise, but it's still ride-able. It will have a bit less power at high throttle openings and lower RPM's because you'll be eliminating the EXUP, but it will make around 2HP more at the peak. It's all trade-offs. Part of the power gain with the pipe and airbox mods, is simply leaning out the mixture with more air. The bike needs to lean out a bit at WOT to make more power. It's not just getting more air overall through the engine, it's getting a closer to correct mix into the engine along with more volume.

Traveller wrote:

You're not going to run it lean enough to damage anything, that's for sure.   WOT is rich from the factory for safety, and getting more air in and out brings it closer to being correct, but it's still a tad rich.   It will be leaner at idle, off idle transition, and cruise, but it's still ride-able.  It will have a bit less power at high throttle openings and lower RPM's because you'll be eliminating the EXUP, but it will make around 2HP more at the peak.  It's all trade-offs.   Part of the power gain with the pipe and airbox mods, is simply leaning out the mixture with more air.   The bike needs to lean out a bit at WOT to make more power.  It's not just getting more air overall through the engine, it's getting a closer to correct mix into the engine along with more volume.  

was going to buy another bike, but can't justify the cost of insurance.. so I'm going to dump some money into mods instead,, and the first on my list is a pipe (maybe full) and either the PCFC or the V (with auto tune) so to clarify, I'm even more confused after reading this post
because all the other posts I've read are mixed... some were Awesome, some ended up going back to stock form, some went back to partially stock, like putting back the exup and just a fuel controller.. I've even read that messing with the Co took care of the off idle snatch (most of it, and honestly overall this is my biggest complaint)So I'm not sure what to do now? should I mess with the Co settings first and see if that alone will cure the off idle lag, or will a fuel controller help the bike where emissions restrictions exist in the throttle range?
I do want to spend the money, but wisely
Thank in advance

right..I'm sort of confused by the last post myself, The big reason I myself am wanting to make a few basic mods is because i'd like to lose some of the throttle lag, it seems very delayed and not a quick crisp throttle. I haven't made any mods yet and am in the same boat as to I don't mind spending the money, just don't want to waste it.

Ive done so many mods I cant remember the results of them all. Pretty sure my fuel programmer took care of the herky jerky.

Writing this from the hotel room on the phone,   so no keyboard.   Bear with me.

The bikes are lean from the factory,  but only in certain areas of the mapping.   Idle,  off idle,  cruise.   Basically,  places where emissions are tested.   Wide open throttle is the only time that cylinder  pressures are high.   The factory sething is rich,  which is a way to keep detonation from happening.   Getting more air into and out of the engine will lean the overall mapping a bit,  because the engine management does not have an oxygen sensor or maf sensor to use to adjust the mixture with,  it only has a map sensor,  throttle position sensor and air temp sensor as inputs.

That means that changes to airflow aren't compensated for.   By allowing more unmeasured air in while the fuel table remains the same, the mixture leans out a bit.   At wide open throttle,  you still won't make it lean enough to detonate, because it will still have a richer mixture than needed.  

However,  the already lean mixture at idle, off idle transition, and cruise will lean out more and probably cause some performance issues.   Things like surging, stumbling, etc.  A programmer can tune this out.   It's not necessary,  because it won't be unsafe,  but it won't be pleasant to ride.  

In my opinion,  put money into the suspension first.   You're searching for maybe 2-3 hp with a pipe and airbox mods.   The suspension will let you ride faster,  and be more under control doing it.

Traveler..Good job on the non keyboard inputs.....
Yes agree that suspension must be done and have that on my to do list along with intake and exhaust
all I really want from a programmer is to eliminate as much of the snatch as possible, get a little more kick in the midrange, and a beefier exhaust note from the can without being overly obnoxious..... Thanks for taking the time on posting, your explanation sums it up for me..and seems to be exactly what I'm looking to get out of the FC..... (This time around)
I don't have much experience with FC's and tuning, since anything 100+ Horse in the street is way plenty for my skills my only other attempt was on my gen 2 FZ1 (a lot of help from Ivan) strictly from curiousity to see what I could get out of her.. But honestly my WR can use a little help, this bike has the worst snatch I've ever experienced compared to all my other bikes that I've owned and could definitely benefit from a couple of HP gains for hill climbs and street duty

Traveller, I somewhat agree, but dont notice any surging ect on mine..

You can set the CO to compensate a bith, that combined with setting the TPS made a huge effect on the jerking just off idle.

On the xt660r/x people seem to fool the airtemp sensor, and richening the mixture a bit that way.

Some bikes seem to have more of an issue than others.   Upping the co at idle,  makes the idle mixture richer,  which helps mask a lean issue at tip in.   Same thing a carb will do with a rich idle mix.   Doesn't need as much pump shot to ease the transition.   Lean it out to make the idle better,  and you can cause a stumble that wasn't there before.  

With fuel injection, if the throttle blade is mostly closed, then cracks open with throttle application, your going from nearly no air flow past the blade to exposing a lot of area quickly.   Slide carbs and cv carbs are actually good at low throttle openings because of the shape of the slide.   The larger the throttle body is in relation to a given cylinder size, the harder it is to come off closed blades and transition to quite a bit of flow even at low openings.   You don't see it as bad with multi cylinder engines using a single throttle, but really notice it on multi large throttle body setups.  

Putting a little extra fuel in helps.   Setting the idle slightly higher also helps.  Getting control of the mixture is the main thing.   Setting the co higher gives it more idle fuel,  which reduces the need for more acceleration fuel.   Moving the tps, is trying to trick the ecm into a slightly different part of the fuel map.   It's all done to try to add a little more fuel at the off idle transfer point in order to smooth the transition.

ADVFTW... Thanks for posting this topic... this has the most useful bits in a couple of replies for me, very grateful for this..
I've searched here and other places where the "topic" just gets blown up and I loose interest

knowing this now.. I think before investing in the pipe and PCFC will try the 2 "tricks" first and go from there, hell this may be the ticket
Reading this also pushed me to,, look into what I can do for the suspension, Since I'm no expert enduro rider..Think I will go with just springs first and go from there as well..
Funny how yamaha sprang this thing.. according to Race-techs charts, for my weight I need to go heavier on the rear and lighter on the front
(or is this how dual sports are designed?) Now I know why this thing feels sorta weird... ordered the spring and hopefully it will equalize back / front and no more to do...all of the above would be great, and on the cheap, crossing fingers.
Thanks again gents