EXUP motor removal

So swaped out my stock pipes this weekend. Can I just unhook this boat anchor motor that ran this valve?

If you wish to have a Check Engine Light (CEL)... by all means...

in order to prevent the CEL after the motor removal, you will need a servo sub (Steve the man! )... you can either DIY it, or buy one from him...

since we are on this topic... I need some information too...

I am going to the agent next week to fix and fuel pump, and after that I am going to remove the servo motor and try to DIY the sub...

the question is:

How do I plug and sub to the connector?

I haven't really taken a good look at the servo motor, but I fear the connection will be somewhat similar to the AIS and air flip, which could be quite troublesome if I want to find a "replacement" plug... On those 2 things, the plug is plugged to an equipment rather to another plug (Damn... it's hard to explain... can someone understand what I am trying to say? )

mtb wrote:

If you wish to have a Check Engine Light (CEL)... by all means...

in order to prevent the CEL after the motor removal, you will need a servo sub (Steve the man! )... you can either DIY it, or buy one from him...

since we are on this topic... I need some information too...

I am going to the agent next week to fix and fuel pump, and after that I am going to remove the servo motor and try to DIY the sub...

the question is:

How do I plug and sub to the connector?

I haven't really taken a good look at the servo motor, but I fear the connection will be somewhat similar to the AIS and air flip, which could be quite troublesome if I want to find a "replacement" plug... On those 2 things, the plug is plugged to an equipment rather to another plug (Damn... it's hard to explain... can someone understand what I am trying to say? )

I understand what you mean. The harness on the bike has a plug on it and it plugs directly into the servo motor. So what you are asking it how to connect the servo sub to this harness plug? I would imagine you are going to have to cut the plug off the harness and splice the wires to the servo sub. Since a matching plug is not available to fab your own connector, I don't see much choice.

I could only offer this as an option if you don't feel good about cutting the factory harness. Find a similar type plug(s) that will accept the same size connectors on the wires, and remove the wires from the factory plug and use the other plug(s) to fab a servo sub connector. That way you can always return it to stock later.

ZigZag....why would you want a "plug" connection? You planning to take it back off soon? Forget that. Cut the wires behind the plug and solder the leads directly to the Servo Sub, then seal them with heatshrink tube. Its a piece of cake following Steveakus directions/diagram....which he furnishes with his Sub.

But, let's back up to the beginning. You can simply disconnect and remove the two cables from the Servo Motor to the EXUP and leave the boat anchor on. that won't hurt a thing...nor will it cause an Engine Light to be triggered. Just saying this so everyone else who reads this thread knows thats an option.

If you want to lose the Servo Motor (aka boat anchor), you'll need the Servo Sub replacement in one form or another. If you just absolutely got to have a "plug & play" variety, then your best choice is to take the Servo Motor apart and use the "other half" of the plug that is built into the motor. Root around in there and dig it out. If you can't do that, then ship your Servo Motor to Steveakus....he'll do it for you (for a nominal fee). Then, you'll have a simple snap-in plug.

HF

Highfive wrote:

ZigZag....why would you want a "plug" connection? You planning to take it back off soon? Forget that. Cut the wires behind the plug and solder the leads directly to the Servo Sub, then seal them with heatshrink tube. Its a piece of cake following Steveakus directions/diagram....which he furnishes with his Sub.

But, let's back up to the beginning. You can simply disconnect and remove the two cables from the Servo Motor to the EXUP and leave the boat anchor on. that won't hurt a thing...nor will it cause an Engine Light to be triggered. Just saying this so everyone else who reads this thread knows thats an option.

If you want to lose the Servo Motor (aka boat anchor), you'll need the Servo Sub replacement in one form or another. If you just absolutely got to have a "plug & play" variety, then your best choice is to take the Servo Motor apart and use the "other half" of the plug that is built into the motor. Root around in there and dig it out. If you can't do that, then ship your Servo Motor to Steveakus....he'll do it for you (for a nominal fee). Then, you'll have a simple snap-in plug.

HF

----thanks HF! i already pm'ed Steveakus on TT.

mwakey wrote:

I understand what you mean. The harness on the bike has a plug on it and it plugs directly into the servo motor. So what you are asking it how to connect the servo sub to this harness plug? I would imagine you are going to have to cut the plug off the harness and splice the wires to the servo sub. Since a matching plug is not available to fab your own connector, I don't see much choice.

I could only offer this as an option if you don't feel good about cutting the factory harness. Find a similar type plug(s) that will accept the same size connectors on the wires, and remove the wires from the factory plug and use the other plug(s) to fab a servo sub connector. That way you can always return it to stock later.

Thanks Mark... you understand me well

I did my servo sub today... (Thanks Steve! )

It is not the best looking sub you can have... but it works




But I have a question...

When I was shopping for the materials, I came across 3 different diodes which are about the same size, namely 4002, 4003, and 5817...

As I am a retard in electronics, I bought 2 each, but only used the 4002...

What is the difference and effect of different diodes used?

Is the 4002 I used ok for this application?

Someone help me please

Cables connected to EXUP valve (silver cap/cover removed)


Cables after being disconnected from EXUP (right side)


Servo motor that EXUP cables are connected to (left side) AKA: Boat Anchor

6 Pole .090 Waterproof Connector Male Half for servo sub replacement can be found here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Waterproof_Connectors/FKWH/fkwh.html

Boat anchor removed


Removing the "boat anchor" leaves a nice sized empty space below battery


Remove bushings from EXUP motor and re-use them to mount the plate under battery

Nice work on the home grown servo sub. I just took the lazy route and bought one from Steve and just soldered and heat shrinked (get the marine grade--it has glue in that seals the connection) it in. Works like a charm

Question I have is what keeps the exup valve in the open position with the cables removed? Unhooking the cables looks like an easy and cheap quick fix but I sure wouldn't want the exup to be in the closed position or flapping around etc.

TIA
10Cup

If you still have the stock header and muffler, I'm not sure I'd remove it. I think it would do more harm than good.

10Cup wrote:

Question I have is what keeps the exup valve in the open position with the cables removed? Unhooking the cables looks like an easy and cheap quick fix but I sure wouldn't want the exup to be in the closed position or flapping around etc.

TIA
10Cup

I'm with Machtig, I'm not sure removing it would do much good without a new pipe and/or header, but I could be wrong. But to answer your question more directly; The EXUP valve is spring loaded, so when the cables are removed the spring holds the valve open.

Hey guys, I just signed up here and if you all have any more questions about the exup servo sub, Im happy to help anyway I can.

and about those diodes the 4002 is fine, I think I typically use the 4001 difference is volt rating 4002=100piv and 4001=50piv, the main thing is make sure they are rectifyer and make sure to have the cathode or stripe towards the white/red wire........

just for those that dont feel like jumping over to TT here is the Free DIY Diagram again........

Steveakus wrote:

and about those diodes the 4002 is fine, I think I typically use the 4001 difference is volt rating 4002=100piv and 4001=50piv, the main thing is make sure they are rectifyer and make sure to have the cathode or stripe towards the white/red wire........

Hey Steve,

Thanks for the clarification... you are the man!

The 02 and 01.... how does the PIV affect the circuit if at all?

I mean... will the difference in PIV value create some effect that we can actually "feel" it?

The maximum reverse-bias voltage that a diode can withstand without “breaking down” is called the Peak Inverse Voltage, or PIV rating

the PIV rating of a diode varies with temperature, except that PIV increases with increased temperature and decreases as the diode becomes cooler

since we are only using 4v on one and 10 to 12 v on the other voltage divider, you will not see any difference in the bikes performance, or problems using the 50piv 4001 or equivelent.....

For those thinking of removing the cables and leaving the stock exhaust:

I would not recommend this, with the cables attached it prevents the flap from rattling around.
I did this to test the effect on performance with and without, I could not determine a benefit one way or the other.
All I noticed was this annoying rattle going on. Save this for a new pipe.

OK, I ain't real swift around electricity .......... but how come your circuit only uses five resistors (20k, 10k, 7.5k and two 3.3k)and the board above from mtb has 9 ? Is he using other resistors than the ones you show to get the required resistance ? mtb ?

Steveakus wrote:

Hey guys, I just signed up here and if you all have any more questions about the exup servo sub, Im happy to help anyway I can.

and about those diodes the 4002 is fine, I think I typically use the 4001 difference is volt rating 4002=100piv and 4001=50piv, the main thing is make sure they are rectifyer and make sure to have the cathode or stripe towards the white/red wire........

just for those that dont feel like jumping over to TT here is the Free DIY Diagram again........

I removed my cables left stock pipe... kinda. I welded the exup valve open. and cut the muffler open and cutout the cat and opened the baffle a little. welded a 1.25" tail pipe on the back.

not as nice as an fmf but it didn't cost much and now i can hear it when im on the highway

Chrispy1200 wrote:

OK, I ain't real swift around electricity .......... but how come your circuit only uses five resistors (20k, 10k, 7.5k and two 3.3k)and the board above from mtb has 9 ? Is he using other resistors than the ones you show to get the required resistance ? mtb ?

Hi Chrispy,

The photos I posted are based on his earlier diagrams... And what Steve posted is the updated diagram, which I am actually using right now...

With the new diagram, the size of the sub is about 1/2 to 3/4 of the older version

Hope that helps

Steveakus wrote:

The maximum reverse-bias voltage that a diode can withstand without “breaking down” is called the Peak Inverse Voltage, or PIV rating

the PIV rating of a diode varies with temperature, except that PIV increases with increased temperature and decreases as the diode becomes cooler

since we are only using 4v on one and 10 to 12 v on the other voltage divider, you will not see any difference in the bikes performance, or problems using the 50piv 4001 or equivelent.....

Aye aye sir... thanks for the time and explanation again

Hi Steve

Do you build a removal module? If so how much are they and how would I order one??


Thank you.

Greg

Akoffroader wrote:

Hi Steve

Do you build a removal module? If so how much are they and how would I order one??


Thank you.

Greg

PM him, guys. He'll get back to you, he's pretty good that way.