Easy mods?

Hi!

I need your knowledge!

I just bought WR250R. I want to make "safes" modifications for the bike health :-)

I just received my Dubach muffler (same than the GYTR). I will try a 12 front sprocket. Now, here my questions:

• Which fuel programmer I have to buy to work well with the Dubach (GYTR) muffler? I would like that it is simple to put on;
  
• If I put a fuel programmer, do I need to do the 'AIS removal' and the 'Air box mod'?
  

Thank in advance for your great advice!

The Power Commander series (III or V) does the most & has the most potential. It is all I will use. If you get your own custom map by a GOOD tuner your golden. Otherwise you will only get as good as the generic maps available. For just a slip on the will be adequate maps. With just a slip on & a generic map I bet it will still be more accurate than the other type of programmers. The add fuel only in large chucks kind is very popular here though. You should run a programmer to get the most from the pipe & to keep from going backwards in spots. No you do not HAVE to do either the flapper or AIS, especially the AIS. No benefit from removing that other than reduced weight, less clutter, & less off throttle backfire. It has no performance aspect. The flapper is open most of the time & only closes at some set range by the ECU for compliance with sound testing. It has a minor benefit. Most people can't even tell a difference even on the dyno for the flapper alone. If you want to try it just yank the hose off the actuator (under the seat, looks like a horn) & PLUG the hose. If you like it go back & remove everything, if you dont hok the hose back up.

Look at the FmF and the Attitude Industries EFI programmer.

No need for a laptop computer and you can basically make changes on the road if you want.
Cheaper than Power Commander too.

Use the search feature at this forum. There's lots on EFI programmers and all the AIS and flapper mods you can make.

Go here too: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/air-intake

You dont NEED a laptop for a Power Commander either. If you get a PCIII it has the same chunks o' fuel buttons as the others PLUS all that POwer Commander goodness. The PCV ditched the buttons but I never use them anyway, a full map is where its at.

Maybe if you want to fine tune it, yeah. For what he's wanting, the plug and play use of the FMF and 'Tude tuner is the easiest to use out of them all.

Much less $$, too.

I used both a PClll and an FMF programmer on my WR-250R, and either will do the job.
The PClll (or V) will give you finer control, but the FMF unit ain't a piece of shit, either. :)

YZEtc wrote:

Much less $$, too.

+10 That in tself is a huge boon.

The PC is about $80 more expensive. I went to read on how to tune the other programmers here:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/oh-those-sweet-mods-f5/the-official-fi-mapping-area-t567.htm

Quote :

I only find six: green, yellow and red (for low, mid and max throttle)

then green+blue (not used, for turbo),
and yellow+blue and red+blue (for cross-over rates)

to give a total of 6 settings.

What am I missing? Where’d you get the 7th one? (I’m guessing the 0.5 setting in the middle is the extra one.)

Quote :

6 smodes; green (fuel is added under cruise), yellow (fuel is added under acceleration), red (fuel is added at WOT), green/blue (on sleds it's used for the turbo, but on our bikes it's the point where the RPM range, when in cruise mode, is turned on), yellow/blue (the adjustment of delay, in acceleration mode, when the fuel turns on), red/blue (the adjustment of delay, in WOT mode, when the fuel turns on).
We use all 6 of those modes; each mode has 8 settings to play with. I've been farting around by checking the plug, but mostly checking the tailpipe. I clean it, run a setting, check the tailpipe and if it's sooty, I back it off along with the feel of the bike under acceleration. So far I haven't experienced any bogging (only when I'm in mud ). As for the last settings, I have them at 4.5 the green/blue at 8, and it runs fine.

If this is what is being touted as simpiler I sure don't follow. On a PC you just plug it in to a USB on any computer (with the PC on or off the bike), click one button-- "Send Map" then unplug USB. You are done, not to mention any reputable retailer will pre-install a map for you. Changing maps is just as easy. The PCV can store two maps & switch them on the fly via an optional handlebar switch too. The physical installation on the bike is identical, they both plug into the same spots.

dude....it's about options, and personal preferance, and money.

The Power Commander stuff, as I recall reading, was designed more for multi-cylinder sportbike type motorcycles in mind.

The FmF and Attitude are more intended for single cylinder dirt, off-road, and dual sport motorcycles.

I was simply making sure the OP had additional information you did not provide and that it was understood that what you get, and what you pay are things you might want to consider.

I'm not saying the PC stuff is not worth the money and time.
Simply that there are other, less expensive, and perfectly user friendly options besides the PC stuff.

Hells yes!

Less the money discussion, if you are a "diddler" the PC gives you all the proverbial "knobs" one would want. If you were stuck in the winter where you couldn't ride your bike it'd give you something to do perhaps. * chuckle *

If you are not a "diddler", the other's (at less cost) is probably a better solution.

* thinking I can't believe SheWolf isn't a "diddler", but a "plug and play" type *

motokid wrote:

dude....it's about options, and personal preferance, and money.

The Power Commander stuff, as I recall reading, was designed more for multi-cylinder sportbike type motorcycles in mind.

The FmF and Attitude are more intended for single cylinder dirt, off-road, and dual sport motorcycles.

I was simply making sure the OP had additional information you did not provide and that it was understood that what you get, and what you pay are things you might want to consider.

I'm not saying the PC stuff is not worth the money and time.
Simply that there are other, less expensive, and perfectly user friendly options besides the PC stuff.

Dude, I'm just trying to dispell the notion being pressed here that the PC is somehow more complicated. You just send a map to it. That's it. Nothing could be simpiler. No one makes a map by hand, the maps are made on a Dynojet 250 dyno with exhaust gas reader. The dyno then communicates with the PC to create the map based on a target air fuel ratio. Its not like you sit down & start pluggin numbers into the table. The number of cylinders have nothing to do with anything. PC's just have additioanl multi cylinder functions (if you choose to use them). Any complications of the PC are optional & not even visible in the interface to the casual user. The OP can decide what programmer to get, I just want the decision based on factual info not hearsay.

The PC is more expensive, its no lie & I don't try to hide it. I am not & have not put down anyone's choice. I have simply said the PC is what I would get & come to the defense of the PC when others say its automatically complicated. Its as complicated as you want to make it. If you want simple it can be dirt simple, basically plug & play. If you want advanced functions they are there too. If people quit saying its automatically more complicated I'll quit posting to the thread

[quote="WRXer"]

motokid wrote:

If people quit saying its automatically more complicated I'll quit posting to the thread

Calm down people!!!!!
Sadly, I don't have enough time, money, tools, or the technical ability to do many of these mods, let alone programme a motorcycle ECU/fuel system! I really enjoy the WR, & look at it as an intermediate bike ideal for learning fast cornering, cutting through traffic on our cr*ppy surfaced minor roads, & commuting to work (when its not raining!) here in the UK. I will probably keep it 2, maybe 3 years, & then trade up to something with a bit more power. I really like the SM hooligan element; only this morning I had to ride over some kerbs & go off-road to avoid a delivery truck that had blocked the road en-route to work!!
Anyway, I'm off early tomorrow morning to get a new rear tyre: £130 fitted, BT090. I guess that's around $200 - how much would this cost in North America?????

it's automatically more complicated...

$200?! Occh...yeah, that tire isn't anywhere near that price here.

X-Racer wrote:

* thinking I can't believe SheWolf isn't a
"diddler", but a "plug and play" type *

I love to plug and play. Diddler to me screams 'child molester.' But yeah, in more cases than not, price is a HUGE factor when it comes to buying stuff. $80 can make or break a sale, so that's why the FMF and the 'Tude are the better choice for many.

I have the FMF tuner and 2 of my friends have pcV's.
I am in no way dissapointed with my choice...

SheWolf wrote:

$200?! Occh...yeah, that tire isn't anywhere near that price here.

Yeah, it sucks (as they say on your side of the Pond!). But I got it fitted this morning. Really good Old Skool tyre shop, with a bunch of guys who know their stuff!
I was really worried about scrubbing this tyre in - thought I would bin it the first corener I came to. But the BT090 sticks like sh*t even when covered with mold release agent straight out of the factory!!
Speaking of outrageous costs, the X in th UK has a recommended retail price of £6000 - USD $10,000 (??) I guess, which explains why it does not sell that well here. What I really don't understand, is why SM hasn't really caught on in the UK, & more importantly, why the X was canned by MCN reviewers, probably the most influential reviewers in the country. Weird....

Get out there and show 'em how it's done! Strange how one person will see something radical, word gets out, then all hell breaks loose. Pave the way!