The Official FI Mapping Area

Please post your FI mapping for your bike, be it FMF, Attitude or Dynojet, and state what mods you have done, if any. This way we can all see at a glance who is running what maps and mods on their bikes and not have to go hunting for it.

So far for me on my R²:

'Tude FI PP

1.5, 2.5, 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5

Mods:

AIS removed
Flapper/soleniod removed
Airbox opened up
Gearing 12/43
FMF Q4

**EDIT** Installed the Q4 this afternoon; new FI numbers added:

3.5, 4.5, 1.5, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5

2009 WR250R

FMF Programmer: stock setting
FMF Q4
FMF Power Bomb
Air Box mod
Flapper/Solenoid removed
AIS removed
Stock Gearing 13/43 soon to be 13/48
This bike was great before I did all this and is even better now!!

Good idea Wolfie. But everyone needs to add what bike they have (R or X) and the gearing they have too.

2008 WR250X:

FMF Programmer 3, 4.5, 2, 8, 5, 4.5
FMF Q4 with custom dB Dawg install
FMF PowerBomb
AIS removed
Flapper/solenoid removed
Stock gearing: 13/42 (soon to be 13/44)

ZED requested altitude above sea level: 0-15 ft.


(updated 6.8.09)

ok..

08wrx

power commander
fmf q4
ais removed
flapper removed/stock filter
13/45 gearing
iridium plug

and a map i came up with... feels stronger than any other map out there ive tried..
give it a try and tell me what you think!


http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?rzyze1nxrge

and a pic of my spark plug after 600 or so miles running my map, its a nice chocolate brown!

SheWolf wrote:

So far for me on my R²:

'Tude FI PP

0.5, 1.5, 1.5, 0.5, 4.0, 3.5, 3.5

Hey Lynn,

Thanks for getting this all started!

Ya seem to have an extra value in your ‘tude tuner settings list.

I only find six: green, yellow and red (for low, mid and max throttle)

then green+blue (not used, for turbo),
and yellow+blue and red+blue (for cross-over rates)

to give a total of 6 settings.

What am I missing? Where’d you get the 7th one? (I’m guessing the 0.5 setting in the middle is the extra one.)


My WRR is set up similar to yours (AIS, flapper and solenoid removed; addtional small airbox hole; stock exhaust).
I just installed the tuner and will also start out using low “base” settings: 1.0, 1.5, 1.5 (G, Y, R)

How did you decide on the other settings (Y+B and R+B)?
Does 3.5/4 correspond to an “average” change-over rate?
Think we should play with these as well as the base settings?


Other than “seat-of-the-pants” how are you evaluating the settings? Have you checked your sparkplug?
Have you tried increasing settings until the motor bogs or otherwise misbehaves?

6 smodes; green (fuel is added under cruise), yellow (fuel is added under acceleration), red (fuel is added at WOT), green/blue (on sleds it's used for the turbo, but on our bikes it's the point where the RPM range, when in cruise mode, is turned on), yellow/blue (the adjustment of delay, in acceleration mode, when the fuel turns on), red/blue (the adjustment of delay, in WOT mode, when the fuel turns on).
We use all 6 of those modes; each mode has 8 settings to play with. I've been farting around by checking the plug, but mostly checking the tailpipe. I clean it, run a setting, check the tailpipe and if it's sooty, I back it off along with the feel of the bike under acceleration. So far I haven't experienced any bogging (only when I'm in mud ). As for the last settings, I have them at 4.5 the green/blue at 8, and it runs fine.

Sorry I don't have anything useful to add at this point other than support, but I must say;
Great Thread!
When I finally pull the pin on a programmer, this will be a great start.

Great idea on posting the spark plug PQRS...
Maybe folks should also post your altitude if you know it (approx.)

as far as altitude... my heads barely above water!! maybe a few hundered feet above sea level... at the top on the hill i live on!

Oh, I see. So we're talking Huricane bait there.

I think Calgary is somewhere around 1000m.

What's you're nominal altitude SheWolf?

400 and change, Zed.

SheWolf wrote:

1.5, 2.5, 2.5, 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5

Lynn - looks like you increased your settings!
Why'd you do it? Just experimenting? What, if any, effect?
(also, you still list seven for some reason )


I just returned from dual-sport ride in the local mountains. Went from sea level at the beach to 8,700 ft.
Bike performed well with 'tude settings: 1.0, 1.5, 1.5, 4, 4, 4 (see prior post for mods).
The exhaust was perfectly clean - no soot at all.
I was thinking about increasing the first three values by 1 (to something similar to what you now list)
to see if the performance gets even better, or if this makes it seem too rich.
Suppose I'll eventually have to give in and check the plug.

Sorry about that! It was a double up. I was picking Derek's brain and we spent a good 45 minutes going over values, then I decided that it could use a tweak in the acceleration parameters so I increased the fuel on demand so it would hit a bit harder when I crack on the throttle. I also set the secondaries a little different so the economy is maxxed out but I still have some snap when I need it in the upper limits. So far it's working out really nice; it's smooth, the soot level has decreased and it just plain smells better, not quite so acrid. The plug is burning optimally, has a slight brownish tinge and no carbony crap.

Just returned from my second ride using the Attitude EFI programmer.

The bike: '08 WRR, 13/46 gearing, AIS, solenoid & flapperectomies, 0.5"x3" hole in air box

First ride: 200+ miles, sea level to 8700 ft.
Settings: 1.0, 1.5, 1.5, 4, 4, 4 (no soot in tail pipe)
Impressions: improved power and responsiveness all around

Second ride: ~90 miles 2,000 to 8.700 ft.
Settings: 2, 2.5, 2.5, 4, 4, 4 (still no soot in tail pipe)
Impressions: Woo-Hoo! Significant gains all around, especially off the bottom.
Bike is a lot more fun to ride, also easier since less clutching and/or shifting.
2nd value (mid-throttle) seems to have made a big difference.
Did notice some stumble starting with throttle closed - 1st value may a bit too rich.
Not sure whether 3rd value (WOT) needs to be that high.

Before the new attituide I was considering gearing lower, adding a tooth to the rear sprocket.
With the increased power, especially at low rpm, I may drop a tooth from the rear for better Hwy crusing.

I seem to be converging on values similar to those SheWolf uses:
first: 0.5, 1.5, 1.5, 4.0, 3.5, 3.5
then: 1.5, 2.5, 2.5, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5
then: 1.5, 2.5, 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5
Thanks, Lynn.

Great to hear! What I like is when you crack on that throttle it's like BAM! Hang on baby we're flyin'.

I can't imagine getting that feeling on this little bike, but we shall see. I'm going to get one and play.

It was funny, it even made my kid squeal when he was on the back.

"Do it again, Mom, DO IT AGAIN!"

Other numbers that have been collected along the way that might be appropriate for anyone wanting to fiddle around with their settings.

Popular setting seems to be 3, 3, 3, 8, 8, 8

Dr. Steves': 3, 5.5, 3.5, 8, 7.5, 7.5

H5's: 3, 5, 0.5, 8, 4, 4

Why this talk of different tuner settings for altitude? The settings stay the same - the ECM compensates for the reduced oxygen. Let's let the carb crowd worry about altitude adjustments!

Z - I have the PCIII on my R, plus the FMF, a 46T rear and an opened airbox. It's not a massive difference overall, but it does have a bit more jam. Surprisingly, most of the extra power is at the lower end of the RPM range - just where it's needed on the two-fiddy. PM me if you want to give it a try before you buy, as we're both in Calgary.

To be honest, the $ I've spent on the little WR is the most per horsepower of anything I've ever owned!! I think the 2-3 hp I've added must work out to over $300 a horsepower. lol! Makes me feel a bit stupid sometimes, but hey - it's hard not to tinker.

Thanks for the offer Longview. That would have been a good idea. I have now pulled the pin on the programmer and exhaust. They're bolt on, so I can always change my mind and only be out a few hundred $. I have the programmer, but haven't got it on yet. Looking forward to trying them.

Anyone know how to convert a PCIII map to the PCV?
I know a guy who need's the Rustyg61 map

Thanks

My Power Commander lll just quit working, and while that's off to Dynojet Research for warranty repair, I needed a new programmer to keep me going (since the factory setings stink for power and throttle response, as we all know).
So, I just got an FMF Power Programmer.

Question:
What settings work for power and throttle response?
I'm after off-road performance and don't care about miles per gallon.

My WR-250Rs mods are:
*FMF Powerbomb header and Q4 muffler
*Deflappered airbox
*12/45 sprockets :)

Update on my FMF PP experimentation and use:

This unit has not missed a beat so far.
I like how it's not mounted up under the headlight and having it's wiring being flexed, bent, and twisted with movement of the handlebar.

If you haven't tried it yet (and you're looking for sharper throttle response), try setting modes 4, 5, and 6 with small values, as I typically see values of 4.5 and higher being used.
This reduces the delay in fueling when you open the throttle and makes the bike noticably more responsive.
Right now, I've got values of 1 in these modes and really like it.
What I'll probably end up doing is setting them at .5 to make it as quick as possible. :)

[quote="0007onWR"]Anyone know how to convert a PCIII map to the PCV?
I know a guy who need's the Rustyg61 map

. .. . further to 007onWR's query, whats the good goss on differences between the PCIII & PC V .. . are the maps interchangeable? Will the V work OK on an '08 (despite supposedly only being for '09) ?.
I dont wanna buy a V for my '08 but then find it wont work, or OTOH buy the III only to be told "Oh you really shoulda gone for the V, they're MUCH better!"


Cheers from DownUnder ;-]]

PS Regarding FMF Vs PC, guys often rate the PC because of its ability to reduce (not just increase) fuel flow, & the FMF can only increase .. . . . which leads me to a question I've not yet seen asked or answered ~ do PCIII users ever/often/never find that they use a map with a reduced flow in some zones to get an optimal 'tune'?

When I had my Power Commander lll on the bike, it was mounted under the headlight as shown in the installation instructions.
The FMF Power Programmer I use now is much thinner and is mounted under the left-hand side cover and velcro-mounted to the forward side of the battery holder. :)