IMS 3 GALLON TALLY!

taoshum wrote:

Installed a blue one yesterday. pics at http://cid-be970b7454254b4b.photos.live.com/browse.aspx/IMS%20tank

had to grind some off the front bracket to fit with the steering damper.

Taoshum, What is that between the tank and radiator side shroud?

They came to deliver the tank. I was in the basement and didn't hear them.

I'll get it tomorrow.

I think mine is waiting for me to come home as well, guess I know what I will be installing this weekend! Woot!

Soooo, are there pictures of these new black tanks installed on the bikes? Would love to see one.

BG

john92 wrote:

taoshum wrote:

Installed a blue one yesterday. pics at http://cid-be970b7454254b4b.photos.live.com/browse.aspx/IMS%20tank

had to grind some off the front bracket to fit with the steering damper.

Taoshum, What is that between the tank and radiator side shroud?

tow rope cable tied to the top of the fork tube, just in case....

taoshum wrote:

BTW: I put lots of reflective/metallic tape on the bottom of the IMS tank like the insulation on the OEM tank

I was thinking about doing something along this line. However, I was hurried and I did not have anything handy. What does everyone think about installing the IMS without any insulation on the bottom?

Word to the wise: PUT LOCKTITE ON THE THREADS! The fuel pump screws can back off on the tank. I found this out today after jumping on the bike to go meet up with Med. I fired up the bike and fuel started pissing down the side of the shroud...I was like . So I ripped the panels off, pulled the tank and unplugged the pump, then flipped it upside down (the tank was full... ), went to pull the pump and all the screws had backed off. I KNOW I had tightened them down... So I go to tighten them back up after cleaning it all up, and one of the screws stripped. Well, the well nut stripped. I'm thinking I'll shoot Chuck a line and let him know...see if maybe there are some other well nuts to use other than those soft brass ones. Brass strips so easy. As for no insulation, I didn't bother with any. Went for a good ride with Med after fixing the tank and the underside of the tank doesn't get that hot. Being plastic it doesn't attract the heat like the metal one did.

Got the call today, will have it tomorrow

Just a rule of thumb and where real estate permits (in any critical areas), use an insulator. Friction kills....

njbill wrote:

taoshum wrote:

BTW: I put lots of reflective/metallic tape on the bottom of the IMS tank like the insulation on the OEM tank

I was thinking about doing something along this line. However, I was hurried and I did not have anything handy. What does everyone think about installing the IMS without any insulation on the bottom?

This metallic tape has no insulation... it's very thin but it will reflect the radiant heat of the engine away from the plastic tank. I don't know what the melting point of the plastic is but it's a lot lower than steel!

Tibarus wrote:

Does it come with decals?

if you like IMS in red, white and blue

SheWolf wrote:

Word to the wise: PUT LOCKTITE ON THE THREADS! The fuel pump screws can back off on the tank.

I'm not sure how the nuts are set in the IMS tanks but I had a Safari tank on my last bike (DR650) and the tank came with a warning NOT to use loctite as the nuts could round out the plastic and lose thier bite, if you know what I mean when trying to undo the screws when removing the tank.....

They use well nuts made of brass, so they are not screwed directly into the plastic. The well nuts are placed into the plastic, then the screws into the well nuts.

SheWolf wrote:

They use well nuts made of brass, so they are not screwed directly into the plastic. The well nuts are placed into the plastic, then the screws into the well nuts.

Sounds like the same as Safari tanks....They say not to use loctite because when trying to unscrew it may strip the nut out of the plastic...

I'm waiting to hear back from Chuck on this; I was told by a buddy that his IMS tank screws had backed off and he used locktite with no problems.

Pulling the threaded insert out of the tank would be unfortunate. Maybe this is a good time for a lock washer, either split or warpy.

ZED wrote:

Pulling the threaded insert out of the tank would be unfortunate. Maybe this is a good time for a lock washer, either split or warpy.

Yeah, and then longer screws because the stock ones JUST bite enuf to grab. I had to go with a longer screw on the one because it was all I had, but it worked.

I did about 10 miles in the woods yesterday and mine seems to be holding so far. Are those well nuts molded in or something? what keeps them in place? It would suck to have a useless tank because they couldn't hold the fuel pump in anymore. I would be a little afraid of loctite also if we ever had to do a fuel pump change. Otherwise it would def help hold everything in place.

Weird-- I seemed to have plenty of length on the threads, maybe a quarter inch or more if memory serves--I did this day before yesterday so memory is suspect

SheWolf wrote:

ZED wrote:

Pulling the threaded insert out of the tank would be unfortunate. Maybe this is a good time for a lock washer, either split or warpy.

Yeah, and then longer screws because the stock ones JUST bite enuf to grab. I had to go with a longer screw on the one because it was all I had, but it worked.

Hopefully it's just mine. I'll see what Chuck has to say when he gets back to me. The well nuts are placed into the tank after it's been formed, by the look of it. Really tight fit hex shaped well nut.

Here's a little trick one might try.

Instead of using thread locker, try using a dab of JB (just one suggestion, but there are other bond materials) on one of the facets of the fastener to the plastic.

It'd be easy to "chip" it off when you're ready to remove the tank.

Blue LockTite would hold fairly well and still be removable. Some of the other "colors" will not be removable... without heat. You could also tape the screw heads to keep them from turning so easily. I used the blue locktite. So far so good.

BTW: what does the "orange" thingy on the fuel line do?

taoshum wrote:

Blue LockTite would hold fairly well and still be removable. Some of the other "colors" will not be removable... without heat. You could also tape the screw heads to keep them from turning so easily. I used the blue locktite. So far so good.

BTW: what does the "orange" thingy on the fuel line do?

I passed on the loctite--none used OEM as best as I could tell and they torqued down nicely. You are correct that blue should break loose--but with small screws it can be a bear at times--especially this type.

The orange thing is just a protective device--you have to "unlock" it to push the side tabs--I disconnected mine at the fuel line since that was metal and the one coming out of the pump is plastic--didn't want to run the risk of breaking the 90 degree fitting.

Thanks! I am less concerned about the tank than I am about the fuel pump. If there is anything I can do to keep the bottom of the tank cooler, I will do it.

taoshum wrote:

njbill wrote:

taoshum wrote:

BTW: I put lots of reflective/metallic tape on the bottom of the IMS tank like the insulation on the OEM tank

I was thinking about doing something along this line. However, I was hurried and I did not have anything handy. What does everyone think about installing the IMS without any insulation on the bottom?

This metallic tape has no insulation... it's very thin but it will reflect the radiant heat of the engine away from the plastic tank. I don't know what the melting point of the plastic is but it's a lot lower than steel!

SheWolf wrote:

Hopefully it's just mine. I'll see what Chuck has to say when he gets back to me. The well nuts are placed into the tank after it's been formed, by the look of it. Really tight fit hex shaped well nut.

I just picked up my tank. It looks like there isn't any standard. The well nuts on my tank are not hex shaped, they are square.