Inner Tube

Why is this technology still being used? Are there any advantages? Would it be worth it to convert to tube-less wheels? Is that even possible for a 250x?

Spokes don't hold air very well.

If you pick up a nail, you can replace your inner tube and not the entire tire.

Yes, some people have converted to tubeless.

Don't sweat it....just ride the piss out of her and enjoy.

I'm curious about this as well.... My X enjoys a lot of single track with big jagged rocks, so I do have to "sweat" it.

From my understanding going tubeless allows for quick easy patch jobs on small holes and if you get a big gash that can't be patched you can safely ride out on a flat without damaging the rim.

Replacing a tube on the trail sounds like a royal B**** Luckily I haven't had too yet.

no such thing as safely riding on a flat, only managing to. a flat tyre will very quickly disintegrate and throw bits of rubber everywhere, leaving you running on the rim. and thats without the rim damage your gonna do without the tyre/tubes cushioning effect. you sit on a bike with anything but the stiffest side wall tyre, with no air in it, and the rim will go to the ground. add rocks and potholes to that?

tubes are used because they are the simplist option. a dirt bike wheel need to be spoked. spoke nipples aren't air tight (i have seen some BMW and Moto Guzzi attempts but they dont wear well enough to go mainstream). if you get a puncture with a tube, you change tube move on. you get a puncture in a tubeless and you sitting around waiting for glues to dry, you have to be careful on the repair incase it moves and starts to leak again.

tubes allow you to (generally) run lower pressures safer (resistance in the tube helps hold bead on).

if you have to right tyre/tube combo and run the correct pressures you'll very, VERY rarely have an issue. my family's been running this dealership for 20 years and racing for longer and the only flats we ever get are if you're unlucky enough to pick up a nail or a few crash damages. (Had a pinch flat 3 weeks ago when the brother in law hit a 6" round tree 8" off the ground @ about 130kph. instead of |___| the rear rim ended up _____ will have to up some pics when we start the repair job.

Thanks for the info miller, looking forward to seeing those pics.

So whats generally the lowest pressure you can run safely without to much worry?

How about rim locks? I don't know much about them.

we normally run 13-16psi front and 12-15psi rear depending on where we're going. that gives a little wiggle room for you do get stuck to drop pressures a bit more, prob no less than 10 in extreme situations. We do run as low as 7-8 in trials type tyre racing dirt track, but thats cold, they heat and come up to 10 or so very quick.

rimlocks are basically a wedge you bolt in to clamp the bead of the tyre to the rim. this stops the tyre spinning on the rim and tearing out the valve stem/twisting up your tube. some people recommend putting the rimlock next to the valve stem hole cuz its easier to change... dont, put it as close to opposite as you can as the weight of the rimlock helps balance out the extra weight of the valve stem and the thicker support rubber around it and there is no discernible diff in fitting if you have good technique. Not a fan of full rubber rimlocks, seem to distort and perish too easily. Alloy is nice and strong, but there is some good low weight plastics options getting around now that seem pretty trick. Strength to weight balancing act.


As for pics. https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t7943-120kph-plus-tree#71163

Thanks for the great info! glad to hear your bro is recovering.

I know this is old but I just realized... I thought we were talking about the tubliss system which does allow you to safely ride on a flat without damaging the rim. But they dont make it for the 17 inch wheels :(