Exhaust Mods

I was worried about noise when I first started looking for exhaust. Then, I heard a WR250R with an FMF Q4. It seemed just as noisy as an X with a Yosh pipe I had seen before that. FMF was back ordered so...

Also, I didn't like the look of some of the longer/larger pipes. I considered the Delta Barrel 4 system for it's size, but the "price vs. performance" ratio got the best of me. I read that the FMF PowerBomb header didn't make as much a difference as hoped, so I applied that to Delta's full exhaust system. The GYTR pipe was more than the Yosh too. And, I didn't like the look of the stock heat shield.

Anyway, Yoshimura won.

On the Yoshimura web site for the WR250R slip on it says...


CAUTION: The muffler packing on this system MUST be replaced every
6-8 hours of use, or after each moto. Failure to follow recommended
muffler re-packing interval can cause muffler damage and may void
the warranty

I think I saw where the FMF Q4 was recommended to be re-packed at 1500 miles.

What is a reasonable service interval for these pipes?

Greg

Akoffroader wrote:

I think I saw where the FMF Q4 was recommended to be re-packed at 1500 miles.

What is a reasonable service interval for these pipes?

Greg

The instructions that came with my Q4 say to repack every 20-30 hours of "normal" use. Also they say to repack if you get water inside, as it will ruin the packing. Always plug the exhaust before washing your bike.

That being said, I have not repacked my silencer since I bought it and I have well over 200 hours on it I'm sure. I have noticed in the last few weeks that it seems to be getting a bit louder, so I looked into getting new packing. Which led me to write this thread...

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7974861#post7974861

To be honest, I didn't see the repack intervals until I opened the box. The process doesn't seem too hard. I have everything to do it, but I don't want to change it that often. Hopefully the packing will last a bit longer that the service interval indicates. We'll see, and I'll report back after some miles.

How many with the FMF system have the pipe touching the frame at the passenger peg mount ? I was getting some strange resonance coming from the bike and noticed mine wedged tightly to the frame. Well, when in doubt get a bigger hammer, after all if it did not work I am returning the creator.

I was rolling down the highway in the cage today when a guy on a WR250X passed me. Being a WR guy I kicked it (wife's Lexus) in the butt and pulled along side the guy and waved. He was cruising at a solid 85 MPH. I then noticed he had a GYTR pipe on it. It really didn't sound much louder then stock.

Greg

oldirt wrote:

How many with the FMF system have the pipe touching the frame at the passenger peg mount ? I was getting some strange resonance coming from the bike and noticed mine wedged tightly to the frame. Well, when in doubt get a bigger hammer, after all if it did not work I am returning the creator.

I noticed the ehaust touching the bracket as well. I put the stock exhaust washer that goes unused between the frame and the exhaust mount. After gtting the bolt in and tight there is just enough room to slim my thumb nail between frame and pipe.

I'm not sure if I'm thinkin right here but if the muffler is bolted to the foot peg mount I dont think it matter's if it is touching the same bracket in another spot
It it vibrates it's going to do it regardless
Did you mod the airbox at the same time?, intake noise is quite loud and can be ultra annoying
Also when you loosen the muffler mount bolt's does the muffler "Spring" away from the mount?
The header may need to be slightly rotated so that the muffler line's up with the mount with no stress when it is tightened
The header is the last thing to be torqued down

Actually the header is the FIRST thing you torque down. You need to install everything finger tight, making sure there is no binding, and then work your way from front to rear, torquing the muffler hanger last. It is more important to have the header torqued first so you make sure to get a good seal at the head. Slowly tighten everything from front to rear and then do a final torque. Then go for a ride and let it all cool. Then do another torque from front to rear.

Just put on the powerbomb header and FMF programmer, I really like this addition brought the power band down and smoothed it out a lot. I can lug it waaaayyyy more.

Were did you put your power band, and what color did you get? (Kiddin' of course.)

With the FMF programmer, are there maps that you upload like the PowerCommander? Or, do you have to custom tune it? What pipe are you running with your set up? (One more.) What differences did you notice with the addition of the header?

Sorry for all the questions.

I did the header and programmer at the same time so I dont know what is doing what as far as performance is concerned, I am running the Q4 I did notice the header made it alittle but quieter. Also 6th gear hill that the bike held a constant 57 miles per hour before the header and programmer now can be accelerated up, at the end of the climb I was doing 63!
And no there are no maps to upload, It comes preset but you can alter everything by pressing buttons I think it is very userfriendly.

Just got a great deal on a full FMF set up:

Power Bomb $170
Programmer $190
Q4 $290

Total: $650 w/ free shipping!!

Got it on Ebay. Best deal I have found anywhere. Should arive next week...can't wait to finally get rid of the ais, exup, and do some airbox mods!

shredak wrote:

oldirt wrote:

How many with the FMF system have the pipe touching the frame at the passenger peg mount ? I was getting some strange resonance coming from the bike and noticed mine wedged tightly to the frame. Well, when in doubt get a bigger hammer, after all if it did not work I am returning the creator.

I noticed the ehaust touching the bracket as well. I put the stock exhaust washer that goes unused between the frame and the exhaust mount. After gtting the bolt in and tight there is just enough room to slim my thumb nail between frame and pipe.

I have a full FMF Q/Powerbomb system as well and the exhaust definitely doesn't touch the foot peg bracket (except for the mount of course).

Just got a Q4 for $265...

SheWolf wrote:

Just got a Q4 for $265...

US$ I presume?

$302 CDN, which is better than the $550 here. That also includes the shipping.

SheWolf wrote:

$302 CDN, which is better than the $550 here. That also includes the shipping.

Wow! That is a good price. Where from?

Discount MX Sales on flea bay out of California.

Wolfie gots a growl....



And the whole Exup is gone, including the servo. Cost me all of 5¢. No CEL either!

this is the new hmf prototype cost $240https://2img.net/h/i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/jacque372/IMG_2370.jpg?t=1245549968

jacque372 wrote:

this is the new hmf prototype cost $240https://2img.net/h/i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/jacque372/IMG_2370.jpg?t=1245549968

Wow. Nice price. Any idea on a decibal rating? Does sound output compare to a race pipe or something like a Q4?

Is there a O2 sensor hole on the FMF Q4 like the GYTR someone told me that the O2 sensor means a power programer is not needed (any truth in that).

You need a programmer as soon as you remove the stock pipe. The FMF doesn't have an O2 sensor but I have seen others weld a bung onto it so you can use one.

SheWolf wrote:

It looks good, Sandman! I always wondered what the rating on that thing was. Does anyone have any idea how they measure the sound levels at the DS events? They have dB restrictions and I was wondering if they do the measurement at idle or WOT.

I just put the GYTR pipe on my R² as well and I was VERY pleased with it. It's not too loud and really helps the bike. I also installed the attitude fuel mapping system and opened up the intake. MUCH better. Love this pipe though, great Yammy quality and not loud at all. Don't know what the actual stats are but I am very sensitive to loud pipes (in that I HATE them) and this pipe is just a lower exhaust note and on the highway you can't even hear it. Great!!

PS: It also uses the stock header which I want because the smaller diameter header helps the low end of the powerband, while the bigger pipe lets the engine rev more it also takes away some torque. Because I want all the low end I can get for my trail riding, the stock header stays. FYI.