Added a blue bike to the collection

Hi all, just picked up a new to me 2008 WR250R yesterday and thought I would introduce myself to the group. I have a 2009 KLR650 and a 2006 KLX250s. I bought the KLX to trailer to trail rides around upstate NY since the KLR doesn't like single track. I love the KLX but I am 6'4" and the cockpit seems too cramped so I have been looking for a WR to replace it.

I found a farkled 2008 on the internet Friday morning and drove 6 hours to buy it in Ohio from a dealer. It has a lot equipment I wanted: rim locks, acerbis hand guards, radiator guard, skid plate, new counter sprocket (1 tooth down) and a tail rack. The PO put a Dunlop 606 on the front and a Pirelli trials tire on the rear. He also removed the passenger pegs. The bike doesn't have a scratch on it the PO must have been a much better trail rider than me. It has about 3,700 miles on it.

I took the bike out for test ride yesterday when I got home. I am amazed how effortlessly the bike runs at 60 mph on the slab and how smooth it is. I really like the bike so far.

I have a few newbie questions. I haven't done a ton a searching so feel free to tell me if this topic has already been beat to death already on the forum.

I would like to open the cockpit a bit more. Can I put 1.5" risers on without replacing cables? Is there a "tall seat" available?

At slow speeds the gearing still feels a little tall. What gearing (front/back) do people recommend for trail riding? Is there a way to reprogram the fuel injection for better low end performance?

Do the trials tires work well in muddy, rooty, rocky northeastern trails? I have a new D606 rear that I bought for the KLX I could use to replace the Pirelli.

Are there any other must do farkles for trail riding?

I put inch taller bars on mine without cable issues, 1 1/2 inches should be doable you may need to rotate the throttle so the cables are on the bottom.
I have no idea about taller seats, most people are after lower, I like the stock seat.
I run 13-50 gearing for trail riding and dont need to go over 50 mph on the road I never go anywheres near a highway, at 60 mph its getting a little revvy but doesnt mind this bike likes to rev.
If you want/need to ride at 60 and trail ride go with 13-48 or 12-43 so you can keep the stock chain.
If you want more low end you need to change the pipe and get a programmer, a programmer on its own just helps throttle response it doesnt boost the low end tq at all.
MT 43s work awesome on roots and rocks and good in mud if its watery and has a hard bottom, if the muds thick and has a soft bottom they suck, they also really suck on wet/muddy grass. I found this out the hard way on my last bike, I crashed in grassy corners and pushed the bike up grassy/muddy hills in one enduro I raced lol.
If there wasnt so much mud around here I'd run one, in there element on rocks and roots they're awesome.
If you dont have a rim lock you will need one asap, you need to air down to 10 psi or less to get a mt43 to bite at 15 or more they suck every wheres.
I recommend a skid plate and bark busters for any bike thats trail ridden, they'll save you money in the end, as getting hung up on something can smash the bottom of the motor and dropping the bike can break the hand controlls.

Biglake, thanks for the info! We can have a lot of mud around here too so that is a good heads up on the Pirelli. Fortunately, the PO put on rim locks, skid plate and bark busters I have learned my lesson regarding protection for the bike and me the hard way.

If you already have the D606 from the KLX put it on. I think its the meatiest tire you can get in a DOT. I dont really experiance any road noise either.