Fmf programmer with stock exhaust

Hello from Greece!

I just bought an Fmf programmer. I have the stock exhaust, airbox mod and filter. Anyone here with the same setup..? I want to give me a setup for the Fmf programmer. I will try to program it myself but it would be better to have a good setup for start.

Thank you!

Hey mate, i don't really know how worthwhile the set up will be performance wise with stock exhaust system, or how it may effect the emmission systems. But i would only proberly start & stay with very low settings such as 1-1-.05-6-6-4.   My WRR is also the euro version with the 02 sensor, and even with the full exhaust, my 1st setting is best when set down to "2" for the cruise mode. ( Proberly as the 02 sensor will be operating at this throttle setting, so it will be constantly trying to "over-ride" the "rich condition" that the FMF is creating ).

With the 02 sensor un-plugged, i did try my bike at various different settings for the first 2 modes on the FMF, but in the end there really seemed to be no "seat of the pants" performance gain with the 02 disconnected. So i have now just left it plugged in to possibly give "better" control of the idle / cruise mixture settings. ( For me the only real performance gain for more power is when i want to rapidly twist the throttle - so therefore the most important FMF number for me is the 2nd & 5th numbers ).

So in short i'd only recommend those very low numbers for your bike. For your comparison, my settings with full exhaust of header & rear muffler, & with the 02 sensor in operation, my best settings after much testing are 2-2-0.5-8-6-4.

So try the low numbers and see how you go - please report back.  I'd say that the main improvement you may notice would be a smoother & more progressive throttle action, rather than any outright power gains.

Cheers, Gavin.

GT-250 wrote:

Hey mate, i don't really know how worthwhile the set up will be performance wise with stock exhaust system, or how it may effect the emmission systems. But i would only proberly start & stay with very lower settings such as 1-1-.05-6-6-4.   My WRR is also the euro version with the 02 sensor, and even with the full exhaust, my 1st setting is best when set down to "2" for the cruise mode. ( Proberly as the 02 sensor will be operating at this throttle setting, so it will be constantly trying to "over-ride" the "rich condition" that the FMF is creating ).

With the 02 sensor un-plugged, i did try my bike at various different settings for the first 2 modes on the FMF, but in the end there really seemed to be no "seat of the pants" performance gain with the 02 disconnected. So i have now just left it plugged in to possibly give "better" control of the idle / cruise mixture settings. ( For me the only real performance gain for more power is when i want to rapidly twist the throttle - so therefore the most important FMF number for me is the 2nd & 5th numbers ).

So in short i'd only recommend those very low numbers for your bike. For your comparison, my settings with full exhaust of header & rear muffler, & with the 02 sensor in operation, my best settings after much testing are 2-2-0.5-8-6-4.

So try the low numbers and see how you go - please report back.  I'd say that the main improvement you may notice would be a smoother & more progressive throttle action, rather than any outright power gains.

Cheers, Gavin.

thank you!!!  

i will try the low numbers for start.

Yes mate - start there and then ride the bike under various different conditions & throttle openings for several days, or at least 50k's +/-... Then maybe just try it again back to back with the 2nd number only bumped up to setting "2". See if there are any noticable improvements in performance, &/or a more progressive rise in the rev's on acceleration. In reality to go higher with any other numbers for your bike is just going to result in an overly rich condition, wasting fuel & money for no performance gains at all. You would also just be fighting against the ECU as it receives the readings from the 02 sensor.

Do you plan on replacing the stock rear muffler at all in the near future ? As this is one of the most noticable improvements that you can make for outright "seat of the pants" performance gains. This then allows you to take better advantage of the FMF P/P.

Please report back with future results mate.

Cheers.

GT-250 wrote:

Do you plan on replacing the stock rear muffler at all in the near future ?  As this is one of the most noticable improvements that you can make for outright "seat of the pants" performance gains. This then allows you to take better advantage of the FMF P/P.

Please report back with future results mate.

Cheers.

i think i'll let the stock muffler there for at least 6 months....

Any fit up & testing of the FMF yet ?

GT-250 wrote:

Any fit up & testing of the FMF yet ?

just installed! its a rainy day here in greece so i'll have to wait until tomorow...

first setup -> 2-2-0.5-8-4-4

about 10 miles of driving was enough to understand the nothing changed... 

second setup -> 2-0.5-0.5-8-7-4 (fmf recommended for stock exhaust) i changed the acceleration fuel to 1. so the setup now is 2-1-0,5-0,5-8-7-4.

impressions... maaaaaaaybe i feel 5% more power in cruising conditions and acceleration. i am not sure because i only rode for 20 miles.

the cruising and wot numbers can't change. both fmf and riders around the world agree with that. the second and fifth number is the problem. i think second number cant be set above 1 with the stock exhaust so i will ride and change the fifth until i find the right one.


the question here is...... will a slip-on exhaust worth the $300?

killbill wrote:

the question here is...... will a slip-on exhaust worth the $300?  

Difficult to answer. The reply to that is what are your expectations?


Most of us think to truly "wake the bike up" you need:

1) exhaust
2) programmer
3) intake stuff ripped out and opened up
4) change gearing

Then some of us have gone the extra mile and
5) gutted airbox and replaced air filter

Some of us have
6) removed airbox door

A bunch have
7) gotten big-bore kits

A few have
8) added a turbo

Some
9) sell bike and get something else with more power


I'm not surprised you didn't get much out of just adding a programmer when the rest of the bike is 100% stock.
The intake and exhaust are still plugged up good.

Getting an exhaust will help as long a you don't have unrealistic expectations about what a 250cc, 25 hp, single cylinder, 300 pound dual-sport is capable of doing.

my airbox door is full of holes... my side panel too...

i dont expect nothing more that better throttle response and 5% faster acceleration...

i own a ktm exc 525 so i am not really interested for big bore or anything that will change the friendly commuter character of my bike...

whats why i am trying to find an exhaust that keeps the oem guard...

forgot to mention i run 13/48.... and i love it!

Here is an oem exhaust that takes stock guard in the for sale section

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t9668-wrr-parts-for-sale

Proberly one of the most expensive exhaust options, but in the case of your Euro O2 Sensor & heat shield, the easiest "off the shelf" bolt on rear muffler is the GYTR unit. Aside from the premium price, i'm very happy with the overall quality, fit and performance. It is very free flowing, which also means that it's on the higher scale of LOUD.

Another good thing about the GYTR rear muffler is that you can purchase the "genuine" packing to suit this unit at a very good price directly from your Yamaha dealer. I've done almost 8,000 klm's on the original packing and all still seems ok. ( Will proberly pull the packing out for inspection / replacement at 10K ).

I suppose the short answer is YES, fit a decent free flowing rear muffler. The performance increase in this alone is worthwhile IMO, and even better still is that you can then take further advantage of the increased power gains from the FMF F/P.

If you contact your local Yamaha parts dealer, they can give you a quote on the GYTR muffler that will suit your Euro version WRR.

Cheers.

30 miles with the same setup. the programmer is useless without the exhaust. i see some differences but it doesn't worth the money.

i really dont like the drd...

i need a quiet exhaust, barrel or powercore is too loud for me. GYTR is LOUD?! damn i had it on my list...
i can have a handmade exhaust for $250 installed... black polished also. not a bad idea....

anyway this is going to be a problem in a couple of months. now i need to find out if this setup is everything i can get from the fmf programmer.