EXUP motor removal

Steveakus wrote:

here is the Free DIY Diagram again........

Thanks man! I'm on it... Gotta go get some parts.

Akoffroader wrote:

Hi Steve

Do you build a removal module? If so how much are they and how would I order one??


Thank you.

Greg

PM or Email me..........

Chrispy1200 wrote:

OK, I ain't real swift around electricity .......... but how come your circuit only uses five resistors (20k, 10k, 7.5k and two 3.3k)and the board above from mtb has 9 ? Is he using other resistors than the ones you show to get the required resistance ? mtb ?

That is because RadioShack doesnt always have the exact resistors you need, so as long as you end up with the same resistance and Voltage dividers then your good to go..........

Also http://www.servosub.com will be developed over the next week so check in there for further options and descriptions, pics, videos etc.......

thanks guys

I just finished my servo board (per diagram), works fine. (THANKS Steve) While I was looking for the parts and trying to find the 6 pin male plug (no luck with that one) I did find the little spade connectors. They are "GM metric" spades and plug in perfectly, so I built the board and soldered the spades on so I could just plug them in. For the DIY, take your time and double check everything before you solder it up. This was a bit of a challenge for me but I conquered it.

Damn. I just cannot get this to work.

I have Steveakus's Solder & Splice version. When wired in the CEL (17) still gets thrown. I have tried re-wiring it 3 times now. I am positive I followed his wiring directions to the letter.

I have also tried SheWolf's 7.5k 1/4w resistor trick. No worky either.

HELP!?!?!?! Ideas please.

:dunno:All I did was hook it up between the black/red & white/red wires. So far no CEL and it pulls great.

Gargoyle wrote:

Damn. I just cannot get this to work.

I have Steveakus's Solder & Splice version. When wired in the CEL (17) still gets thrown. I have tried re-wiring it 3 times now. I am positive I followed his wiring directions to the letter.

I have also tried SheWolf's 7.5k 1/4w resistor trick. No worky either.

HELP!?!?!?! Ideas please.

You may just want to buy the one from Power Commander or Graves...they are sealed and plug in. Do a search for servo sub, around $60 I think...

I'm thinking it'd be easier to obtain and maintain a 1974 CZ enduro at this point.

This stuff is over my head for sure. I'm going to ride the bike as is for a while and hope a few things slowly sink in. But I'm dense as a fence post so that could be doubtful. I'll have to say I'm terribly tempted to get a fuel programmer already, everybody seems to think those are a worthwhile mod.

Sarah

Gargoyle wrote:

Damn. I just cannot get this to work.

I have Steveakus's Solder & Splice version. When wired in the CEL (17) still gets thrown. I have tried re-wiring it 3 times now. I am positive I followed his wiring directions to the letter.

I have also tried SheWolf's 7.5k 1/4w resistor trick. No worky either.

HELP!?!?!?! Ideas please.

I used SheWolf's 7.5k 1/4w resistor trick. Worked first time - no CEL. I crimped/soldered very reduced size spade connectors onto the resistor (forceps heat sink in between while soldering), plugged it into the correct two holes, tape to protect the OEM connector, blob of silicone... let dry... tape over the top; stuff the pigtail and zip tie it.

Thanks Wuffie!

Artoo

Steveakus wrote:

Hey guys, I just signed up here and if you all have any more questions about the exup servo sub, Im happy to help anyway I can.

and about those diodes the 4002 is fine, I think I typically use the 4001 difference is volt rating 4002=100piv and 4001=50piv, the main thing is make sure they are rectifyer and make sure to have the cathode or stripe towards the white/red wire........

just for those that dont feel like jumping over to TT here is the Free DIY Diagram again........

i used 4007 diodes. i cant find any 4001 or 4002 here, will that be a problem?

Cool! I'm slapping a FMF on soon and this is good info!!


The only thing I don't get is how the servo bypass mod ties in with all this?


If you keep the servo, you do the bypass mod to keep it wired in one spot and improve performance? ... and if you replace the pipe, you need to fool the computer that the servo is still there? Is that it?

It's easy:

When you remove the stock muffler, you automatically remove the EXUP valve since it's attached to the stock muffler.
That EXUP valve was run by an electric servo motor, located beneath the battery.
You can either:

1) Just remove the control cables that connected the servo motor pulley to the EXUP pulley, leave the servo motor in place and plugged into the wiring as it always was, and ride.
This is by far the easiest thing to do.
The bike will be fine and happy.

2) Remove the EXUP servo motor in order to remove unneeded parts.
However, once you unplug the servo motor, the bike's instumentation will light up a Check Engine Light (CEL), AKA idiot light.
The electrical thingys shown in this thread are homemade electronic circuits to get rid of that CEL.
These are called servo subs because they plug into the electrical plug that the servo motor once did.
All the servo sub does is make the CEL go out so it will quit annoying you and quit making your friends ask you why your CEL is lit up.
It does nothing for performance - it just gets rid of the idiot light on your dash.

Myself, I used a much, much, much simpler servo sub, which is just a resistor jammed into the plug where the servo motor once was.
That thread detailing that is on here, too. :)

killbill wrote:

Steveakus wrote:

Hey guys, I just signed up here and if you all have any more questions about the exup servo sub, Im happy to help anyway I can.

and about those diodes the 4002 is fine, I think I typically use the 4001 difference is volt rating 4002=100piv and 4001=50piv, the main thing is make sure they are rectifyer and make sure to have the cathode or stripe towards the white/red wire........

just for those that dont feel like jumping over to TT here is the Free DIY Diagram again........

i used 4007 diodes. i cant find any 4001 or 4002 here, will that be a problem?

anyone?

Just so it's posted somewhere in this thread.....

There is nothing wrong, or harmful, with simply disconnecting the EXUP push-pull cables from the servo motor and calling it a day.

You do not have to disconnect and remove the servo motor. You won't get an error code. All you'll have a about one pound of useless weight sitting on your bike.

I know a lot of people get a little bent about the concept of leaving "useless" weight on the bike, but it's not a ten pound anchor or anything.

Just thought I'd add that little bit of info.

Carry on.

YZEtc wrote:

It's easy:

When you remove the stock muffler, you automatically remove the EXUP valve since it's attached to the stock muffler.
That EXUP valve was run by an electric servo motor, located beneath the battery.
You can either:

1) Just remove the control cables that connected the servo motor pulley to the EXUP pulley, leave the servo motor in place and plugged into the wiring as it always was, and ride.
This is by far the easiest thing to do.
The bike will be fine and happy.

2) Remove the EXUP servo motor in order to remove unneeded parts.
However, once you unplug the servo motor, the bike's instumentation will light up a Check Engine Light (CEL), AKA idiot light.
The electrical thingys shown in this thread are homemade electronic circuits to get rid of that CEL.
These are called servo subs because they plug into the electrical plug that the servo motor once did.
All the servo sub does is make the CEL go out so it will quit annoying you and quit making your friends ask you why your CEL is lit up.
It does nothing for performance - it just gets rid of the idiot light on your dash.

Myself, I used a much, much, much simpler servo sub, which is just a resistor jammed into the plug where the servo motor once was.
That thread detailing that is on here, too. :)

Ohh, ok thanks. I saw the single resistor thread and thought it was some separate kind of mod. That sounds much easier to do if the end result is the same!