Oil Filters?

Rocky Mountain offers K & N and several others, including a reuseable:

http://www.rockymountainmc.com/typeDetail.do?&navType=type&navTitle=Engine&webTypeId=101&webCatId=17&allVehParts=true

Sarah

As far as oil filter application charts go, an oil filter listed for any year YZ-450F motorcyclr or YFZ-450 ATV will also fit the WR-250R or X.

Thanks! I think i get the one from rocky mtn.. i've bought a lot of stuff from them in the past.

scotty

I've dropped in 2 OEM filters in the first ~150 miles but I also ordered 3 Tusks at ~$4ea......Rocky Mtn/Tusk products have always suited me fine.....no need to pay 3X as much for OEM (IMHO)

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?&allVehParts=true&navType=type&webTypeId=101&navTitle=Engine&webCatId=17&prodFamilyId=15040#vehicleSelect

I always go by the old saying (I made it up)
Cheap parts cost less, Hyundai's cost less than BMW's cuz they just are not as good yada yada

You only need a filter every second oil change

0007onWR wrote:

You only need a filter every second oil change

Some people will not be persuaded otherwise

Hey, you cant hurt your bike by changing the filter too much

My dealer gave me with the new bike a metallic/washeable oil filter as a gift (OEM), have you used them? Are they as good as paper ones? How many oil changes and cleanings their are supposed to last? Thanks!

I have seen them for awhile, but I don't know about that. How can you be sure you get all the gunk out? Perhaps there is some special way to clean them I am not aware of and they may come out clean as new, but, I do not think I could be persuaded to use one especially since paper filters are rather inexpensive. Just my 2 cents worth, not sure it is even worth 2 cents. wilburj

I used on my DR-650 for 30k miles without any problems. I primarily got one because I was going on a long trip and didn't want to carry a half dozen filters with me.

I've also gotten one on my Victory but I primarily got it because it was sexy and Victory recommends doing the oil and filter ever 2500 miles.
http://www.conquestcustoms.com/oilfilters.aspx

With easy access to filters I probably wont be getting one for my WR.

I used the Scotts filter on my Dakar for many miles. Well made and easy to clean, you can use about anything to clean it with, dish soap etc.

They should last forever, just make sure if someone else changes your oil they don't toss it.

From what I've gathered, they don't filter very well. Paper filters work, I'd rather pay $3-5 every few months for a new filter that I know works than risk my motor.

skierd wrote:

From what I've gathered, they don't filter very well. Paper filters work, I'd rather pay $3-5 every few months for a new filter that I know works than risk my motor.

i don't think it's worth it. maybe, if you have a bike that's predisposed to wrecking the filter with water contamination (950/990 anyone?) but otherwise the data suggests that paper filters do a better job.

if you can wash it out with soap, it's probably getting by in the first place!

Anyone ever use a stainless steel oil filter?

such as this: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p306118&leafCatId=&mmyId=19600366

Do they work good? and how do you clean them?

seems like it could save money / headache of having to run to the bike shop.

For what you pay for the filter, buy a bunch of disposables and be done with it. Not worth the hassle IMO.

They do work though usually not as well as paper / fiber at the extreme particle size level. SS filters were originally developed for aerospace high temp / high pressure applications.

Intersting this came up. I was talking to a great Yamaha tech and was told to STAY AWAY from metal filters. Why? Because they filter TOO MUCH. What, you say? Well, they seem to filter so well that the filters plug up fast...in turn causing a whole slew of trouble. Care to rebuild your engine? KTM riders' bikes are flying apart because they changed to metal filters, and that was the reason. I was kinda looking at that myself, but after hearing that, yeah, I don't think so.

I have seen them for automotive use and also in diesel use. In high pressure applications I am all for them. Also on equipment that you tend to go into a lot to check the filters often. Disassemble it, rinse it clean and then clean the housing and back together again.
Which ever you choose, whether it be a serviceable stainless unit, a K&N element or a stock type always remember that filtration is the most important thing. Once an engine is broke in and everything is seated swap over to a good synthetic oil and a higher quality oil filter.

Something I do on my new personal vehicles is replace the stock oil filter ASAP (I carried a K&N oil filter to the dealer with me and told them to put it on before I left the lot with my S10 in 2002). Dont change the oil, just the filter and add the missing volume of oil from the filter change. I want that better filtration and protection thru the break in period and use the conventional oil for the break in since it is gonna get changed so soon. When it is time for its first service after break in change the filter and the oil both but now go to full sythetic. On the next service (5000 miles) I will replace the filter only and add any lost oil volume. Then on the next 5000 miles do the oil and filter both. So every other service is oil or oil and filter.

I started doing this after my '94 Lumina had to have the crank turned and new bearings installed at 64,000 miles. I use to run Castrol GTX and Frame oil filters. The machine shop asked me what products I was using and then showed me all the parafin deposits in the heads, valve covers and such. The "sludge" from conventional oil generally comes from parafin (wax) that is added to the oil. Once oil is subjected to heat it drops out and leaves a thin film on the engine parts. Once it warms up it liquifies and blends black into the oil.
From them I learned to run the full synthetic and better filters. The Lumina now has +210,000 on the engine and is just fine.
The 3000 mile range for oil changes is a marketing strategy for spending. 5000 miles is better. Aside from the parafin content in conventional oil it is not going to break down the formula of the oil from wear and tear. You would have to be racing your ass to and fro and really abusing the vehicle to do that. Example-race engines.
The synthetic is gonna get you the 5000 miles no problem, no chemical breakdown. A quality filtration program is the key to life of oil.
My products are as follows;
Lumina Euro; Mobile1 synthetic 10W30, K&N HP1001 +210,000 miles
S10; Mobil1 synthetic 10W30, K&N HP1001 filter +162,000 miles
PT Cruiser GT Turbo; Mobile1 syntetic, K&N HP1002 filter +64,000 miles
Yamaha WR250R; AMSOIL 10W40 synthetic, K&N 141 filter 5500 miles

I have been using them for years on my WR250F. Last year, I did a top end when I thought it was about time and, much to my delight, my cylinder, piston and rings looked like they had about 100 miles on them. Remember, I am talking about a high-strung race bike with a 13,500 RPM redline. I blow out the filter with high pressure air when I change my oil. Even when I did my first oil change after the new top end, I did not see any significant metal in the filter.

One thing to remember is that they are kind of a pain to clean as well. I had one for an old XR and never again. Not worth the money IMHO.

Aftermarket filters:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/maintenance-f2/oil-filters-t237.htm

Sarah

Jersey Devil wrote:

The 3000 mile range for oil changes is a marketing strategy for spending. 5000 miles is better. Aside from the parafin content in conventional oil it is not going to break down the formula of the oil from wear and tear. You would have to be racing your ass to and fro and really abusing the vehicle to do that. Example-race engines.
The synthetic is gonna get you the 5000 miles no problem, no chemical breakdown. A quality filtration program is the key to life of oil.

Yamaha WR250R; AMSOIL 10W40 synthetic, K&N 141 filter 5500 miles

Sounds interesting & plausible. What about semi-synthetic?? I'm just about to change out the Motul semi-synthetic 5100 10W40 in my X at 3500 miles. I maybe a nooob, but I've read loads of stuff on regular v synthetic oil, & how 'synthetic' synthetic oil actually is!! Anyway, the Motul already in my X doesn't seem thin or cruddy - its a nice sandy colour, & yeah, it looks like its only half used!

njbill wrote:

I have been using them for years on my WR250F. Last year, I did a top end when I thought it was about time and, much to my delight, my cylinder, piston and rings looked like they had about 100 miles on them. Remember, I am talking about a high-strung race bike with a 13,500 RPM redline. I blow out the filter with high pressure air when I change my oil. Even when I did my first oil change after the new top end, I did not see any significant metal in the filter.

Cool, thanks for the info.

might have to pick one up.