WR250X tachometer and CO adjusting ???

i don't know about this tips. Anybody try this ???
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q98ARDWEnUY&NR=1

Look that :

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t1141-wr-taco-in-diagnostic-mode

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t3769-wr250-r-x-built-in-programmer

Thanks so much !

Just wanted to comment on this mod. I live in Ohio and have a 2010 WRR that I have been modifing since bought new in Sept. Most common mods are done - still running the stock headpipe with a Q4. I love this bike but was really let down with the power since I also have a CRF250X that is stock except for a minimum uncorking - JD jet kit and mildly open air box - thats it.

Anyway I installed a PC5 and autotune on the WR a few months ago and although it made a big difference it still did not have the snap off the bottom like the CRF. With the autotune I can read the AFR and after reading about this mod it sounded like just what I needed. My bike started with the co set at 0 wich was about 14.5:1 AFR on the autotune. With the co bumped up to 10 the autotune shows approx 12.8:1 AFR and although I only got to ride it one day last week, it definately has more off idle snap and actually seems to start better - even though it has always been a good starter. I am not trying to say that it is as crisp as the CRF but it is better and truthfully I don't know if it will ever be as good as an accelerator pump.

The power commander recommends that the idle section of its mapping be left stock and this mod has its effect right there so I really think it's going to work well. Also I see their is a parameter in the PC that is supposed to mimic an accelerator pump so I'll play with that next if this winter weather ever decides to quit.

Justlookin wrote:

Just wanted to comment on this mod. I live in Ohio and have a 2010 WRR that I have been modifing since bought new in Sept. Most common mods are done - still running the stock headpipe with a Q4. I love this bike but was really let down with the power since I also have a CRF250X that is stock except for a minimum uncorking - JD jet kit and mildly open air box - thats it.

Anyway I installed a PC5 and autotune on the WR a few months ago and although it made a big difference it still did not have the snap off the bottom like the CRF. With the autotune I can read the AFR and after reading about this mod it sounded like just what I needed. My bike started with the co set at 0 wich was about 14.5:1 AFR on the autotune. With the co bumped up to 10 the autotune shows approx 12.8:1 AFR and although I only got to ride it one day last week, it definately has more off idle snap and actually seems to start better - even though it has always been a good starter. I am not trying to say that it is as crisp as the CRF but it is better and truthfully I don't know if it will ever be as good as an accelerator pump.

The power commander recommends that the idle section of its mapping be left stock and this mod has its effect right there so I really think it's going to work well. Also I see their is a parameter in the PC that is supposed to mimic an accelerator pump so I'll play with that next if this winter weather ever decides to quit.

that's good info on the A/F ratio. i've got a pc4,k&n and removed air box top. my stock co setting was -7 and i was able to increase the setting a few numbers richer with each mod. the best setting i've found for mine is +8. i tried settings of +10 and higher at one point and they were too rich....i had a flat spot on take off and overall it just felt flat...same as a rich jetted carb bike.
i don't think you will ever get the snap out of the wrr like you have with your crf-x. these wrr's run/feel like they have a flywheel with twice the weight they need......
my other current bike is a yz426f...fcr pumper carb...i understand what your talking about on the difference about "snap".

So just to clarify... Do you have to ground this Black wire before the CO Menu will show up? Also, Where is the tip sensor? I've owned my 08 WRR for a couple months now and haven't tinkered with it enough. Can somebody please help?

Also, regarding adjusting the CO +/-, I'm up in Minnesota where it's starting to get colder, I would assume a warm engine is req'd, then start tweaking. What should I look/listen/feel for? A smoother idle? A snappier throttle response off idle?

I'd like to squeeze a little more out of my WRR if possible, for a little more... EXCITING riding.

whitea42 wrote:

So just to clarify... Do you have to ground this Black wire before the CO Menu will show up? Also, Where is the tip sensor? I've owned my 08 WRR for a couple months now and haven't tinkered with it enough. Can somebody please help?

Also, regarding adjusting the CO +/-, I'm up in Minnesota where it's starting to get colder, I would assume a warm engine is req'd, then start tweaking. What should I look/listen/feel for? A smoother idle? A snappier throttle response off idle?

I'd like to squeeze a little more out of my WRR if possible, for a little more... EXCITING riding.

I can't watch the video here at work, so I'm not sure the sequence they show, but I did do the mod. If you want to do this w/o making any permanent mods, pull the seat, disconnect the lean angle sensor and short the two black leads. The lean angle sensor is under the seat (has UP molded into it). Hold the S1 and Rst buttons while turning the ignition on (do not start). Leave the key in ON, remove the jumper, plug the LAS in and start the bike while following the rest of the directions.

I tuned mine by finding a fairly long stretch of road with a slight incline, running the bike to 5500 rpm in 2nd gear, then banging open the throttle. Played with the values till it felt strongest, with no stumble when yanking the throttle wide open. My bike is stock, C1 was at 0, I found best results at -1. Many people are saying their bike is -3 to -4 stock, mine falls on it's face at that setting.

so i messed around with my C1 setting recently and couldn't really tell a difference, even when go up to +25 or down to -25 while riding. I assume I would want my bike to be more rich since these bikes come lean from the factory to pass emissions. I have mine set at +25 right now because I couldn't tell much of a difference and I had a trip up to Mammoth where I knew it needed to be more rich for the elevation. I live in SoCal and my stock setting was 0. I don't have any mods on my bike, just want it to be snappier off the bottom end. Anyone else have any input on what settings help? Thanks!