Tools needed to change chain?

Just received my front and rear sprocket and a new Primary chain as I was walking out the door for a week long vacation.
Can someone tell me if I need to order a "chain breaker tool or a chain rivet tool" ?
I am going to order a chain alignment tool and like to order all the necessary tools together.

With my toy box unopened, I was hoping it comes with a master link and all I have to do was to hand fit the link and slide the clips on. Seems too easy right?

Is it true that I need to grind apart the old chain? or does it unclip and fall apart?

I was looking for a step by step tutorial on replacing chains but no success, if point me to it if it exists and if not, then we need someone to step up.

Any help with be appreciated.

Tony

You'll either need to break the old stock chain with the tool or use a grinder to cut it off.

If you have a clip master link on the new chain and assuming you have the right number of links, you won't need any special tool to install it. Some people don't like using chains with a clip master link. I would agree on higher HP bikes. But using them on these little 250's is not a problem.

Step by step tutorial:

1. Take off old sprockets and chain
2. Install new sprockets and chain.
3. Adjust tension

A cutting wheel on a dremel will make quick work of the old chain. So is your master link rivet or clip?

Sarah

greer wrote:

A cutting wheel on a dremel will make quick work of the old chain. So is your master link rivet or clip?

Sarah

I am away till Sunday, don't know what came in the mail. Is one better than the other?
Where should I cut the old chain? grind off the end of the rivet or just cut the dog bones?
Will there be any use of the oem chain after its been cut, are there compatible links which can be re-added to the oem chain for spare?

I've always used clip links. Here's a good write-up:

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/chassis/73-masterlink

Sarah

You might read thru this thread, too:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t3862-changing-sprocket-and-chain#37434

trav72 wrote:

Curbhopper wrote:

I am away till Sunday, don't know what came in the mail. Is one better than the other? Clip is fine on the wr250R/X but rivet is better
Where should I cut the old chain? grind off the end of the rivet or just cut the dog bones? Either one. But I find it's easier to grind the rivet off
Will there be any use of the oem chain after its been cut, are there compatible links which can be re-added to the oem chain for spare? Depends on how old the chain is. I usually just throw them out. But I guess you could keep it as a spare. Personally, I wouldn't waste my time with the old chain.

I will try to grind rivets off first.
My chain has a total of 180 miles, its still quite new but reliability does out weigh $80

greer wrote:

I've always used clip links. Here's a good write-up:

http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/chassis/73-masterlink

Sarah

You might read thru this thread, too:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t3862-changing-sprocket-and-chain#37434

Thanks, those were good links, learned some do's and some don'ts along with lots of hows.
I guess I really can't order anything until I know if a riveted masterlink came or a clip style one.

Tony

Curbhopper wrote:

I will try to grind rivets off first.
My chain has a total of 180 miles, its still quite new but reliability does out weigh $80

Okay, scratching my head here.

I've been hanging around WR forums ever since the bike first came out. Had an '08 WRR for three years now.

Where are the "reliability" issues with the stock WR chain that has you wanting to cut a new chain up?

There's lots of comments on the various forums about people wearing out the stock sprockets and chain. But I have yet to read of anyone talking about their chain letting them down, including people like BigDog who have put a lot of rough miles on the stock chain.

Your chain to do with as you wish, but I'm not sure why you don't just wear the thing out before changing it out, unless you have a sprocket combination in mind that it won't work with.

180 miles on the chain? Depending on what you do to it taking it off, I suspect you won't have much trouble getting some money back out of that chain in the flea market from somebody not concerned about its reliability.

Quote :

I guess I really can't order anything until I know if a riveted masterlink came or a clip style one.

Spin the rear wheel and you'll see your stock chain is riveted.

Yes, you guessed it. I am going to try the 12/48 combo that requires 112 links.
I need to get the front wheel up fast, when I twist that throttle... I need the WR to say "HOW HIGH !!!?"

After reviewing my order, I know its a clip style master link. Mixed reviews on the standard Primary RDO O ring chain, some say it stretches on every ride and some say it barely stretched after numerous rides. Hmm, guess I will find out soon.

BTW, can the stock chain be removed without cutting?

Thanks to all that contributed.

If you take the swingarm off yes. If not, no. If you do take the stock chain and sprockets off, and manage to not destroy it in the process I might be interested.

Why get a cheap off-brand chain though? I've put about 7000 miles on the current rk xso chain and its only needed one adjustment to date for the initial stretch... it is about to need adjusting again, but that could be from the tire being worn out and therefore shorter. Rk or did for chains...

Curbhopper wrote:

I need to get the front wheel up fast, when I twist that throttle... I need the WR to say "HOW HIGH !!!?"

You'll need more than a 12/47 combo to get a wheelie machine....but it will be a HUGE improvement over stock.

skierd wrote:

If you take the swingarm off yes. If not, no. If you do take the stock chain and sprockets off, and manage to not destroy it in the process I might be interested.

Why get a cheap off-brand chain though? I've put about 7000 miles on the current rk xso chain and its only needed one adjustment to date for the initial stretch... it is about to need adjusting again, but that could be from the tire being worn out and therefore shorter. Rk or did for chains...

I have no experience with chain brands, figure I just start with a chain brand with mixed reviews than a chain with a solid negative feedback or one with a solid price tag. It will give me experience in changing out chains if it proves to be inferior.

How involved is it to remove the swingarm? does it require special tools?
If I decide to remove it intact, you are first on the list.

Tony

motokid wrote:

Curbhopper wrote:

I need to get the front wheel up fast, when I twist that throttle... I need the WR to say "HOW HIGH !!!?"

You'll need more than a 12/47 combo to get a wheelie machine....but it will be a HUGE improvement over stock.

I went with 12/48, ideally with a generous slip of the clutch I should be able to send myself to the ground.

Careful with them wheelies Tony...that is what caused me to break my tailbone last season. Well, trying the stand up ones anyway.

Not sure if the WRR has enough grunt to power up a wheelie..not mine at least. If it has to be clutched up, what fun is that.

Change your sprockets too much and it will probably suck at any kind of speed.

DougZ wrote:

Careful with them wheelies Tony...that is what caused me to break my tailbone last season. Well, trying the stand up ones anyway.

Not sure if the WRR has enough grunt to power up a wheelie..not mine at least. If it has to be clutched up, what fun is that.

Change your sprockets too much and it will probably suck at any kind of speed.

Thanks for the word of caution Doug.
With me weighing in like a heavy weight boxer, the clutchless wheelie machine would have to be a 1200cc.

I ride at two speeds, one is slow and the other is slower.
Speeds just makes me fall harder! I fall no matter which way the wind is blowing. NJ trees move alot faster than deer if you ask me.
No street riding for me, seen enough cagers read the paper, put makeup on and texting!
The ability to run 45mph with out buzzing is enough for me. Crossing the happy speed threshold is not my intention, where I reside in the mod Dept corner allows for "reversibles"

Curbhopper wrote:

I have no experience with chain brands, figure I just start with a chain brand with mixed reviews than a chain with a solid negative feedback or one with a solid price tag. It will give me experience in changing out chains if it proves to be inferior.

How involved is it to remove the swingarm? does it require special tools?
If I decide to remove it intact, you are first on the list.

Tony

It is a bit of a procedure, but not difficult and requires no special tools. You should be taking the swingarm off once a riding season anyways to grease everything anyways. If memory serves, all you need is a 27mm for the rear axle and possibly the swingarm bolt, 22mm and 19mm for the shock linkages. Took me about 5-6 hours to get everything apart, cleaned up, regreased, and reinstalled with a new chain and sprocket the first time if memory serves.

With two wheel sets i cut the stock chain an added a clip type master. I have a second chain and master for other wheels.Used to just add three links and use two masters on the stock chain.Then one day i cleaned the shop only to find a new o-ring chain still in the box,it became the second chain.

dtx wrote:

With two wheel sets i cut the stock chain an added a clip type master. I have a second chain and master for other wheels.Used to just add three links and use two masters on the stock chain.Then one day i cleaned the shop only to find a new o-ring chain still in the box,it became the second chain.

Interesting. I swap between my R and X wheels at least once a week. But I run 13/47 on both sets. I find it's a little to high on the R wheels and a little to low on the X wheels. But for the most part I'm happy with that ratio. It makes the swap quick without messing with a chain each time.

just wanted it to rev up a little quicker off road,stock is fine with 17s

Okay, now that I have installed the 12t and 48t with a 112 link chain, I find the 12t with the 48t combo is just a little too torquey! I climbed a small incline with just idle.
I kept the 48t and switched back to 13t and its absolutely perfect!!! Zero buzzing and speed to torque ratio is just right for me, 1st gear quick starts are no problem and 2nd and 3rd gears feels like one continuous powerband.
Sorry Skerd, I have destroyed the oem chain. Dremeled off the rivets and still could not punch out the rods so I cut down at the O rings and killed the chain.

I took some photos,


OEM 13t.



New and OEM rear sprocket.



New chain with masterlink.



Rear sprocket comparison.



New and OEM counter sprocket.



OEM CS nut.



Before peening.



How I peened.



After peening.



Notice the indents for peening.



To unpeen, I just used an impact driver.

Thanks all.

There you go!

Sarah