how long did your clutch last?

pls share, this should give me an idea as to when i should replace my clutch plates

and should i get this kit? http://cgi.ebay.ca/KG-Clutch-Factory-Kevlar-Disc-Sets-Yamaha-WR250X-08-11-/200632230983?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb69ce447#ht_500wt_922

or this? http://cgi.ebay.ca/08-09-Yamaha-WR-250-X-R-EBC-DRC-full-clutch-kit-NEW-/150511902909?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230b3560bd#ht_1610wt_914

How long your clutch lasts depends on how much abuse you heap upon it.
It could be one ride, or the whole time you own the bike.

Myself, I always go with genuine Yamaha parts.
The few times I've used aftermarket clutch parts, it didn't feel the same.

YZEtc wrote:

How long your clutch lasts depends on how much abuse you heap upon it.
It could be one ride, or the whole time you own the bike.

Myself, I always go with genuine Yamaha parts.
The few times I've used aftermarket clutch parts, it didn't feel the same.

so have u changed your clutch plates yet?

No, I haven't.

My 2008 WR-250X has around 6,000 miles on it, with the original clutch parts working just fine.
The 2008 WR-250R that I rode last year had 7,500 miles on it when I sold it last September.
That bike still had the original clutch parts working just fine.

There have been some posts of guys roasting their clutches, though.

The way I ride mine on the street, I can't imagine ever wearing it out. Not unless I use the wrong oil and glaze the friction plates. In which case I will try to sand them and make them good again.

I wheelie all the time and have 12,000 + on my clutch

I constantly slip mine on the trails and with 19k+ miles it is still working as good as ever.

I got 2500 miles on my 2008. Street riding only. I just replaced the stock clutch with the complete Barnett Dirt Digger Clutch Kit (Springs, and Plates) just because Im upgrading everything on the bike and wanted to change the clutch (my stock clutch is still perfectly fine, if I clean the oil off them, they'd pass as new still). I must say the Barnett Dirt Digger clutch is AMAZING!!! It's soooooo smooth compared to the stock clutch! If I come in really hot to a corner and drop 2 or 3 gears quick, The engagement and engine braking is nothing like the stock clutch, its much more smoother and not nearly as harsh. Its like the mid point between having a slipper clutch and the stock clutch. Difference in the plates : carbon fiber friction pads vs. stock kevlar pads. The Barnett springs have half the coils as the stock, but the spring rate is way better. I've always replaced clutches with EBC brand stuff but im a BARNETT fan now.

PS, got the clutch kit on ebay via Niche Cycle Supply for 125 Shipped. Best price around.

dont use kevlar or carbon clutch plates on a street ridden wet clutch bike. they grip great, but can make it a bit too 'grabby', and the main problem is the crud they put in your oil as they wear. they are something that should only be used in race type situations where you change the oil after every meet. at work the only time we use non genuine plates in any brand is for super tight arses or in huge power race bikes. your better off with heavier springs to get more clamping force than grippier plates.

Knowing this bike, it should last about 30 years.

millert85 wrote:

dont use kevlar or carbon clutch plates on a street ridden wet clutch bike. they grip great, but can make it a bit too 'grabby', and the main problem is the crud they put in your oil as they wear. they are something that should only be used in race type situations where you change the oil after every meet. at work the only time we use non genuine plates in any brand is for super tight arses or in huge power race bikes. your better off with heavier springs to get more clamping force than grippier plates.

STOCK YAMAHA PLATES = KEVLAR

If I come in really hot to a corner and drop 2 or 3 gears quick, The engagement and engine braking is nothing like the stock clutch, its much more smoother and not nearly as harsh. Its like the mid point between having a slipper clutch and the stock clutch. Difference in the plates : carbon fiber friction pads vs. stock kevlar pads. rims

'08 WRR - 7,400 miles - original clutch

Hey all.,

I've been feeling my clutch slowly getting worse during the last year and it finally went in the middle of a hare scramble. On a sharp hill. A muuuuuddy one. It always seemed to fade if I was riding hard for a few hours and adjusting never seemed to help. It's not bad stock and for general riding I've never had any problems, but for all my highway use and heavy clutching during racing there's got to be something better.

I've been looking through the posts, but haven't found any specific info about clutch parts. Aside from OEM, and plates from EBC and possibly Barnett, who supplies clutch parts for the WR? Anyone make an aftermarket basket? I haven't had a chance to call the usual suspects, but I haven't seen the WRR listed specifically on their websites.

Maybe a new thread here?

Anyone?

'08 WRR - 8,000 miles - Original clutch, no problems

2/3 dirt - 1/3 street

I'm pretty hard on the clutch.

31k miles, original clutch but probably going to get done by the time it hits 50k miles. Its definitely nit as nice as new anymore but still holds fine. Off roading with the stock x gearing and street tires hasn't helped the cause for sure.

I'm considering getting a Barnett set of plates (kit) since I'm starting to get really pissed at the lack of clutch control. The lever engages way at the top (lever out) now. I've adjusted and lubed every which wa, and the bike has just about 2K on it.
I've got about 1K on the oil so maybe I should swap it out and see...
I do have bar risers but the clutch seems to have enough slack though.
Makin; me cranky.

Rapid Dog wrote:

I'm considering getting a Barnett set of plates (kit) since I'm starting to get really pissed at the lack of clutch control. The lever engages way at the top (lever out) now. I've adjusted and lubed every which wa, and the bike has just about 2K on it.
I've got about 1K on the oil so maybe I should swap it out and see...
I do have bar risers but the clutch seems to have enough slack though.
Makin; me cranky.

Are you using both adjustments for the clutch cable?
Or just using the one at the perch?

I've tried both.
The bike has been flawless up til now, but now it's all grabby. Hard to slip the clutch when need I need to like making a U in the dirt.
On another note, my clutch pull is much easier than my friends WR which is very stiff.
At any rate, it's not very slick shiftin'...

Mine is real grabby now too. I need to get in there and inspect. I might have cooked it a bit on a hard start. I just pray the basket/driven hub isn't gouged.

...change the oil yesterday, pretty dirty for 700 miles. Who knew Yamaha synth is good for 500 miles...
Seems to shift, clutch better now. Less grabby.
I've ponied up fo a Righteous lever though. I figure something more precise won't hurt things...

Had a talk with Josh at righteousstuntmetal.com about his levers.
Bought one and got it un-blinged raw metal with the delrin bushing. Looks great.

Most important, it's cured all my grabby clutch issues.
The clutch action is smooth and transparent as it should be.
Well worth the price.

Money shots...