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Hi!I´m looking to buy a fmf efi power programmer,but my wrr has O2 sensor.Is O2 sensor compatible with fmf programmer?Somebody have fmf programmer and O2 sensor?

Broo C em wrote:

Cheers from DownUnder ;-]]

PS Regarding FMF Vs PC, guys often rate the PC because of its ability to reduce (not just increase) fuel flow, & the FMF can only increase .. . . . which leads me to a question I've not yet seen asked or answered ~ do PCIII users ever/often/never find that they use a map with a reduced flow in some zones to get an optimal 'tune'?

Yup. There's some spots on all the maps (AFAIK) where you're actually taking out fuel.

Longview wrote:

Broo C em wrote:

Cheers from DownUnder ;-]]

PS Regarding FMF Vs PC, guys often rate the PC because of its ability to reduce (not just increase) fuel flow, & the FMF can only increase .. . . . which leads me to a question I've not yet seen asked or answered ~ do PCIII users ever/often/never find that they use a map with a reduced flow in some zones to get an optimal 'tune'?

Yup. There's some spots on all the maps (AFAIK) where you're actually taking out fuel.

Proly why mileage some times improves. I found that I had just as good or better mileage while on the CD ride. Additionally at the 6K+ altitude I found quite a bit more power and response with the follwing settings.

3, 4, 4, 1, 1, 1

Now back at my normal altitude of 1,380 I went back to 2.5, 4, 4, 1,1,1

Probably off-topic somewhat, but where are the deals for the PCIII ?

I have one on my R1 and I've got the programming part down (somewhat)

I'd rather use what I know I know than to learn what I don't (again). ...and me and my laptop have this bond ya know. That's swy they call it a laptop ya know ! (Not so much like a lap dance - It's different somehow) TMI I realize...

..or do I just get my wallet out and go buy the servo plug-in and PCIII at Dynojet and STFU.

sswrx wrote:

YZEtc wrote:

Update on my FMF PP experimentation and use:

This unit has not missed a beat so far.
I like how it's not mounted up under the headlight and having it's wiring being flexed, bent, and twisted with movement of the handlebar.

If you haven't tried it yet (and you're looking for sharper throttle response), try setting modes 4, 5, and 6 with small values, as I typically see values of 4.5 and higher being used.
This reduces the delay in fueling when you open the throttle and makes the bike noticably more responsive.
Right now, I've got values of 1 in these modes and really like it.
What I'll probably end up doing is setting them at .5 to make it as quick as possible. :)

Just wondering where you have your programmer unit mounted? I can't seem to find any room where my PCIII will be away from heat or water besides under the headlight. Can you post a picture?

Moved mine under the seat. Stays dry and is easier to access for tweaks.

Hi all, last weekend I finally got to take my R2 for a decent dose of bush bashing, & I must say how VERY pleased I am with it ~ especially in terms of its ability to pull hard down low rather than having to be revved out. (I'm not an agressive rider, I prefer engines that behave like they came out of tractors!).



I'ld been keeping my previous ride (a GG Pampera) aside rather than selling it until I had found out how the R2 was going to compare ~ & the GG-P is now on the market.



My R2 has all the usual mods now, incl an FMF programmer set to 3,5,.5,8,4,4, which was the last set posted in the Battlethread by Steveakus & Krabil ex dyno.



During the ride I found a tendency of the bike to stall when coming to a stop, or just de-clutched at low revs.

When I went to raise the idle I found that I hadda screw it out a couple of full turns to get even a slightly noticeable increase in revs ~ is this normal, or could it indicate that something else is out, like mebbe the TPS position? I'm used to idle screws that need very little tweaking in order to change the revs.



Thanks for ANY insights.

BrooC DownUnder

My idle speed screw acted in a similar manner.
Guess that's how it goes with the WR-250R FI throttle body vs. a screw raising the throttle slide of a carburetor.

Once in a while, my bike will stall at low revs, but it doesn't do it enough to be a major hastle.

I've been using my FMF programmer settings with the 4th, 5th, and 6th modes set at .5
I like the quicker response. :)

Service your air filter often.
If you ride most of a day off road, do it before the next ride.
Use a real foam filter oil, too. :)

sswrx wrote:

Anyone else running a PCIII on their WR? Are there any maps other than the ones from Dynojet's site to download? I'm trying to find a good map for a combination using the airbox mod, stock filter, FMF Q4 w/ Powerbomb, & stock gearing on my 09 X. Looking for a good balance between power & fuel efficiency since I do more commuting than recreational riding. I've currently installed the map from Dynojet with the open airbox, Leo Vince pipe combo since it was the closest thing to what I have. I rode today but can't tell if there was a plus or minus in performance from the stock pipe. It felt about the same. Sounded better though.

I have the same mods and use the rustyg61 map
I cant figure out how to attach a file but if you PM me your E mail I will send it to you

Broo C em wrote:

When I went to raise the idle I found that I hadda screw it out a couple of full turns to get even a slightly noticeable increase in revs ~ is this normal, or could it indicate that something else is out, like mebbe the TPS position? I'm used to idle screws that need very little tweaking in order to change the revs.

That's because the idle adjustment screw on this bike is controlling the amount of air leaking past the throttle valve. On carb bikes you are actually moving the valve, which is indeed a much finer adjustment. This bike with EFI has an idle air screw adjustment. The more you open the screw the more air bypasses the valve allowing the engine to idle higher. Close the screw and you restrict the amount of air bypassing the throttle valve, thus lowering the engine idle speed. What you experienced is normal as far as the engine's reaction time to your adjustments.

I wonder if after opening the air bypass you would get a reaction to idle speed by adding some fuel in CO mode
Try going up 10 points and see if idle speed increases

Quote :

I think Calgary is somewhere around 1000m.

Nope, we are higher than that. Closer to 4000 ft. If you go out to K country you'll be closer to 5000 ft.

Longview wrote:

To be honest, the $ I've spent on the little WR is the most per horsepower of anything I've ever owned!! I think the 2-3 hp I've added must work out to over $300 a horsepower. lol! Makes me feel a bit stupid sometimes, but hey - it's hard not to tinker.

+1

Power Commander V
Delta Barrel 4 exhaust
k&n air filter
airbox mod
stock gearing

I am using the rustyg61 pcIII map that Dynojet converted to a pcV map for me. Bike seems to run fine, but just installed all those goodies today and only put about 15 miles on the bike.

Hey
Didn't know Dyno jet would to that
I have the PCIII, it would be great to be able to store more than 1 map

Any one have any attitude 3.2 gen maps?

Any one running anything but the rusty61 map on there pc3 or pc5?

Mods:

Flapper removed, air box opend up "HighFive" style.
+
K&N air filter
+
AIS removed
+
EXUP valve and servo removed (used Graves servo eliminator)
+
O2 censor removed
+
FMF PowerBomb header
+
FMF Q4 silencer (not all that silent)
+
FMF PowerProgrammer set at 3-5-0.5-8-4-4
+
13/50T sprockets
=
Much more power (power wheeles in first 3 gears), no delay in throttle responce and smoother throttle responce at low rews (no more on/off)


Mind you that I use my WRR for off road only, and don't give a damn about fuel consumption - power and "rideability" is all that is important for me.

Just on a topic of conversation,,,

I havent done much to my bike yet but watch out for what i have just ordered from 'the States'.....im excited.
i have only done,,

safari tank
13/50t sprocket
bash plates, hand guards, PROPER tyres take off indicators etc etc

I AM GETTING

fmf q4
fmf MEGABOMB!!!!!
fmf programmer
ais removal kit from wrrdualsport
unifilter

i am going to do

airbox/flapper removal mod
ais removal (obviously)
handgrip heaters (i dont care wat u say, its not that gay......ok maybe a little)
EXUP servo removal
o2 sensor removal

so wat i would like to know is what code should i start off with my programmer......
any ideas and wat was ur total process of settling on ur setting!!!!!!
please help!!!!!!!

As you are going to do the same mods as me, I'm sure you'll like the same settings.
Read more here: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/dynotesting/71-dyno2

Grip heaters are NOT gay. They make you stand out from the rest of the wusses that won't ride in anything under 10º. I have them, and I also have the seat heated as well. I'm usually the last one out and the first one out in the season.

SheWolf wrote:

Grip heaters are NOT gay. They make you stand out from the rest of the wusses that won't ride in anything under 10º. I have them, and I also have the seat heated as well. I'm usually the last one out and the first one out in the season.

Oh yeah, they're gay. Or for girls... Sort of like ski patrollers who buy boot heaters. Heated seat? Are you afraid of freezing your wedding tackle or what?

They have these things called "gloves" (or "mitts" for the slightly weak). If they work while skiing at -30 at speeds ranging from 25 - 45 mph, they probably work just fine on a motorcycle at 10º, with your hands shielded behind barkbusters.

In fact, I know they do. Trail tested (You may notice the temperature was just slightly below 10º):



It ain't cold that stops you around here. That particular "road" right now is under about 6' of snow. Stud your tires all you want, you aren't going to push through snow after a certain point.

I like to be able to feel the grips under me...with ski gloves I'd be like Randy Bachman trying to pick a gnat out of a pile of dog shit. I rode with them and didn't like them, which is why I find the hot grips for me are the answer. I could have gone with the heated gloves, but again, too thick for my liking. As for the seat heater, it's nice to sit on a warm seat instead of an ice cube. Most sleds come with them now, and so do some atv's...gotta be a reason for that. Once the snow gets that far I'm on the quad and then it's not an issue. Those have heated grips too.

K i'm kinda in the middle
Hotgrips are not gay but seat heaters!!.... now those Are Gay
But then again, if it's gay for guy's but it's on a ladies bike.....Is it still Gay??

Anyway, back to fuel injection mapping LOL

Hey, it keeps my butt warm and therefore I can ride more and longer and in essence be able to play with my tuner.