The Official FI Mapping Area

KC0514 wrote:

Thanks for the numbers Mr-cave.

I just plugged them in and the bike has s lot more snap to it in the lower rpm's.

Great numbers.

FMF header and Q4
Airbox door removed
Flap and ais done.

Nice!

Please let us know if you start to have problems with the bike dying when highway cruising (6th gear and a moderate constant throttle).
Because my bike does that from time to time. But i will not believe that it is because of the settings.
There must be some problems with my FMF programmer because i now removed it and it runs without problems.

Quote :

But i will not believe that it is because of the settings.
There must be some problems with my FMF programmer because i now removed it and it runs without problems.

It's your settings, believe it

"mr-cave wrote:
My settings: 3,5/ 4,5/ 1,5/ 8,0/ 3,5/ 4,0

FMF powerbomb
FMF powercore 4
FMF programmer
Airbox lid removed
Airbox flap removed
AIS system removed

Standard gearing 13/42




New setting: 3,5/4/1/4,5/1/1,5
CO set at 12
Grinded the exhaust port to match gasket
Spark arrester inserted (even though I felt it had higher top speed unplugged....)

So far best setting. (for me) Now if Im rolling in 1st gear and hit the throttle the front wheel will come up in the air. Didnt do that before. Only if I was using on/ off method.

Cruising in lower speeds is much better now.

4th figure was tuned in by starting the bike up in CO mode so that i could see RPM´s.
When set at 8 and slowly turning the throttle it would suddenly start revving at some point. Like there would be a gap in fuelcurve.
Tried that sometimes and lowered 4th figure more and more untill it felt good.
Now there is barely any feeling of such fuelgap in the lower rpm´s (around 1500-2500)
Dont know if it was just my bike doing that, or if you other riders can feel the same "gap"?"

Did you have the stalling problem with your first settings? If so was it not as bad.... in the one post they emailed you to set setting 5 to 4-6 and with your last setting you are down to one Cant wait till you up it and I hope to heck it works out for you. You do have to like how they respond and are willing to help everyone.

Carmmond wrote:

"mr-cave wrote:

Did you have the stalling problem with your first settings? If so was it not as bad.... in the one post they emailed you to set setting 5 to 4-6 and with your last setting you are down to one Cant wait till you up it and I hope to heck it works out for you. You do have to like how they respond and are willing to help everyone.

Yes i had them in the first setting too. But maybe it got a little worse after the last setting... im not sure.
The bike is awesome now otherwise. So i hope it will run allright after change of nr5 settings.

Yes I was wery pleased about their kindness and quick response. And if the problem is cured it would be really nice!

So my bike is displaying the same cuts out cruising on the highway thing as some previous posts. I also have a slight stutter on occasion on very light acceleration (not sure if it's enough to trip accel mode or if it's still in cruise mode). It also sometimes "bogs" on accel, not on initial "tip in" but a hair after I gun it.

Bike:
FMF Programmer
HF Airbox mod + Door Removed
GYTR Muffler
AIS/EXUP deleted

Settings:
3, 5.5, 3.5, 8, 4, 4

Any suggestions? I'm thinking about bumping the cruise setting up to 4 and cutting the accel down to 5. I'm clueless about the cutting out on the highway.

Arkmage wrote:

So my bike is displaying the same cuts out cruising on the highway thing as some previous posts. I also have a slight stutter on occasion on very light acceleration (not sure if it's enough to trip accel mode or if it's still in cruise mode). It also sometimes "bogs" on accel, not on initial "tip in" but a hair after I gun it.

Bike:
FMF Programmer
HF Airbox mod + Door Removed
GYTR Muffler
AIS/EXUP deleted

Settings:
3, 5.5, 3.5, 8, 4, 4

Any suggestions? I'm thinking about bumping the cruise setting up to 4 and cutting the accel down to 5. I'm clueless about the cutting out on the highway.

Your setting seems a bit rich.
Try my figures at my last post above but change the fifth figure to 5 instead of 1.

Arkmage wrote:

So my bike is displaying the same cuts out cruising on the highway thing as some previous posts. I also have a slight stutter on occasion on very light acceleration (not sure if it's enough to trip accel mode or if it's still in cruise mode). It also sometimes "bogs" on accel, not on initial "tip in" but a hair after I gun it.

Bike:
FMF Programmer
HF Airbox mod + Door Removed
GYTR Muffler
AIS/EXUP deleted

Settings:
3, 5.5, 3.5, 8, 4, 4

Any suggestions? I'm thinking about bumping the cruise setting up to 4 and cutting the accel down to 5. I'm clueless about the cutting out on the highway.

Your setting seems a bit rich.
Try my figures at my last post above but change the fifth figure to 5 instead of 1.

Those last three numbers, anyone try setting them at 0.5, 0.5, 05? I did and I like it lol. The idle is much higher and it seems smoother at low rpms. It was probably just one of those settings that did it, but I don't know what they all do so I'm leaving it as is unless my mileage goes to total crap.

I have mine set to 3.0, 4.5, 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5. So far that seems to be the best with my setup.

2011 WR250R
Mods include;
Highfive airbox mod
Flapper Removed
Powerbomb Header
Q4 Exhaust
AIS removed
K&N Filter
Stock Gearing


I initially set my fuel to 3-5-0.5-8-4-4. But this resulted in a noticeable bog when rolling on the throttle, but pulled very hard up top. It also cut out about once every ride. So I changed it to 3-4.5-1.5-4-4-4. This seemed better but still had the slight stall and sputter. The numbers I settled with seem to be the best so far. My only complaint is that it doesn't pull has hard up top, but there is no bog or lag when rolling on the throttle, and it hasn't cut out or stalled yet. Seems like a good compromise. I haven't pulled the plug but I think I had it too rich and that was causing it to bog when rolling on the throttle, because messing with the throttle trying to figure out why it was losing power when I rolled it on would cause the bike to stall like I had flooded it. Although I could be wrong. I'm going to try and richen it up a little more on top though, then I think it will be perfect.

Does it stumble only when cold? Mine will die at lights when you try to go, and cutout mid turn when you roll back in to it until its warm.

When Cold yeah it is bad. I think my CO levels might have something to do with it. But to be fair it has always done it even when stock. I usually just let it warm up before getting on it. Speaking of CO levels I can't get into mine, the only step I skipped was disconnecting the fuel pump. Is that a necessary step to adjust the CO level or even get into that menu? I can get into the diag menu no problem.

Bikesquatch wrote:

When Cold yeah it is bad. I think my CO levels might have something to do with it. But to be fair it has always done it even when stock. I usually just let it warm up before getting on it. Speaking of CO levels I can't get into mine, the only step I skipped was disconnecting the fuel pump. Is that a necessary step to adjust the CO level or even get into that menu? I can get into the diag menu no problem.

Disconnecting the fuel pump? To get into the CO setting???

If you have a US bike, all you have to do is ground the wire found in the lean angle sensor connector (it's the one opposite the other 3 wires). This will let you into the CO settings from the DIAG menu. There's a detailed description of this somewhere.....just do a Google search and it should turn up pretty quickly.

-SM

First off, thanks to all the "regulars" (irregulars?!?) who've set precedent in dialing in the FMF Power Programmer!

Just a quick question, my bike has the following mods:
FMF Power Programmer
Q4 pipe
stock header
ultimate airbox mod
EXUP delete
AIS delete

I used the normal FMF setting of 3 - 4 - 1 - 8 - 4 - 4.5, works GREAT all around!

I was just wondering if people have played around with the (first 2) #'s to get better fuel mileage? How low can you go without running lean?

I have a few upcoming trips over 200 miles one-way, would be nice to tune it down a bit for the boring slab portions, and then go back to the FMF settings in the dirt.

Thanks!

to answer my own question , I called Dobeck Industries & spoke to Dallas, he said that dropping the first # (amount of fuel added at cruise) one whole number will suffice for better mileage (so, first # changed from 3 to a 2 in my case). Any lower, and you risk running lean, especially with the free-flowing airbox mod and Q4 pipe.

Also, noticed today that while cruising in 6th at say 50-60 mph, the bike had a slight stumble a time or two, as in no power until I chopped off the throttle (rode all day yesterday and that never happened). He recommended changing the 5th # up a bit (from a 4 to a 6 in my case). He said they may even tell FMF to have that as the standard setting in the instructions, since they are receiving several comments on this issue:

3 - 4 - 1 - 8 - 6 - 4.5

After many years of sportbike ownership and a few recent years without a bike at all, I recently snatched up a great deal on a pristine '98 WR250X with 1200 miles and a Two Bros exhaust. The many great posts on this forum helped me choose the WR over the DRZ and the Ducati Hypermotard 796. My first bike ever was an XT350, so I feel like I've come full circle.

Anyway, I wanted folks on this thread to know that on Sunday afternoon I dug into my bike and removed the AIS, did the Ultimate Airbox Mod, switched to a UNI filter and installed an FMF PP -- using the numbers above. I was skeptical about how much improvement I'd feel, but holy crap -- it's apparent at the seat of the pants! I'll likely never get to a dyno, so SOTP is good enough for me.

I will say that the actual programming of the FMF was the least straightforward part of the adventure with the high speed scrolling through the flashing lights, but after numerous restarts I think I got it. Can't imagine at this point how it could feel much better.

Thanks to everyone on this forum for the killer advice. It's amazing how working on this bike has me relying as much on my computer, surfing from "how to" site to "how to" site, as it does on my tools!

BPG wrote:

to answer my own question , I called Dobeck Industries & spoke to Dallas, he said that dropping the first # (amount of fuel added at cruise) one whole number will suffice for better mileage (so, first # changed from 3 to a 2 in my case). Any lower, and you risk running lean, especially with the free-flowing airbox mod and Q4 pipe.

Also, noticed today that while cruising in 6th at say 50-60 mph, the bike had a slight stumble a time or two, as in no power until I chopped off the throttle (rode all day yesterday and that never happened). He recommended changing the 5th # up a bit (from a 4 to a 6 in my case). He said they may even tell FMF to have that as the standard setting in the instructions, since they are receiving several comments on this issue:

3 - 4 - 1 - 8 - 6 - 4.5

Previously I was running 3-4-0.5-0-0-0. It eliminated a lot of the twitchiness and felt to me like made the bike more off road friendly, a much more linear throttle / rev range. It also lessened the tendency to stall when cold. But It also cost me on mileage (56mpg on my last tank) and I've got a good bit of carbon on the exhaust outlet.

I backed down the first two numbers by 0.5 and am trying your suggest last three now. I can feel more transitions in the fueling as I ride the bike and it stalled first thing when I barely touched the throttle after starting it but I'm going to see what it does for my mileage and then test it vs having the first 3 be 0.5 lower with the last three set to 0 again.

Haven't run through a full tank yet but I can say that mapping is MUCH more prone to stalling at low rpms until the motor is good and warm. I stalled 5 times trying to get out of the parking lot at work yesterday. It also has that transition thing you were talking about where sometimes moving up and down in the middle range will land you with a big fat dead spot until you chop and reopen the throttle. It does however pull better from a roll on in the middle rpm range which is what you usually need while commuting. I think I'm going to do some more tuning. Probably just up a bit on the 1st number, get a mileage report, then try zeroing the last numbers and compare.

*edit* Never mind, not touching it. It has explosive hit now (compared to before). Driving the same as I always do, I keep popping little baby power wheelies. Sofar they've just been scaring the crap out of me as the bike jerks when the front tire reconnects, but its got to signify good tuning lol.

Just picked up a 2010 X. It's got all the mods, GYTR lbock off plate/smog removed, EXUP removed, K&N filter and a Yosh RS-2 pipe and FMF FI box.
First time around the block when I shifted up to 6th it bogged, felt like it was running out of gas. Plenty of fuel.
Maybe I need to add fuel on the top end?

Doubt it needs more gas on the top end, if anything its probably rich on top if its set at anything higher than 1 for the 3rd number in the sequence.

Rapid Dog wrote:

Just picked up a 2010 X. It's got all the mods, GYTR lbock off plate/smog removed, EXUP removed, K&N filter and a Yosh RS-2 pipe and FMF FI box.
First time around the block when I shifted up to 6th it bogged, felt like it was running out of gas. Plenty of fuel.
Maybe I need to add fuel on the top end?

click me <-- could it be? Go to page two of this thread...might be what appears to be a common problem with FmF units.

...interesting...I haven't had a chance to fiddle with it yet.

Do you or anyone here know what the base settings (factory defaults) are from the factory?

I have just installed one and I have not changed anything on it. I will see what it is set at before I change it and post the results here for you.

oic0 wrote:

*edit* Never mind, not touching it. It has explosive hit now (compared to before). Driving the same as I always do, I keep popping little baby power wheelies. Sofar they've just been scaring the crap out of me as the bike jerks when the front tire reconnects, but its got to signify good tuning lol.

Are you at 2.5-3.5-0-0-0-0 now?

hi all,

i have the attitude v3 tuner. i have been running a stock pipe up until now.

last night i installed an FMF Q4 and a Powerbomb Header.

Anyone have this setup that could provide baseline settings? I suppose I'll try 3 3 3 8 8 8 as i have read...

also, are the numbered settings for an FMF programmer and an Attitude programmer the same, ie can i use someone's FMF settings on my Attitude if they have the same setup exhaust wise?

thanks for the help!!!

wes

p.s. i'm running dirt mostly in first 3 gears, sometimes 4th. don't care about top speed, care about torque and smoothing out the snatchy throttle.