The Official FI Mapping Area

yeah so any answers on programming?

haha nar ive decided against grip heaters anyway coz im in aus and it doesnt get below 15c where i live so theres no point and this bike will be 100% off road.
my pipes came today and im just waiting on the ais removal kit from krabill and the exup servo eliminator from graves.....i know but i want to do it right. i know if i did the exup servo thingo myself i would screw it up.
the mega bomb looks AWESOME


cant wait to kick it out there at full stick with the megabomb and q4 perfectly in tune with the programmer!!!!!!!

this is my baby looking a bit traumatized from having all the shit removed off her back!!!



cheers from oz

Be interesting to see what kind of heat that bitch will throw down there, being wider than the PB which throws a substantial amount of heat.

yeah ill have the parts all installed by next weekend and i will post up fotos elsewhere but add a link from this thread.

Sounds great! Be interesting to see the diff between the MB and the PB.

mullet2006 wrote:

Just on a topic of conversation,,,

I havent done much to my bike yet but watch out for what i have just ordered from 'the States'.....im excited.
i have only done,,

safari tank
13/50t sprocket
bash plates, hand guards, PROPER tyres take off indicators etc etc

I AM GETTING

fmf q4
fmf MEGABOMB!!!!!
fmf programmer
ais removal kit from wrrdualsport
unifilter

i am going to do

airbox/flapper removal mod
ais removal (obviously)
handgrip heaters (i dont care wat u say, its not that gay......ok maybe a little)
EXUP servo removal
o2 sensor removal

so wat i would like to know is what code should i start off with my programmer......
any ideas and wat was ur total process of settling on ur setting!!!!!!
please help!!!!!!!

Hey mullet,

Your bike sounds almost identical to mine as far as the mods go, i did HighFives ultimate airbox mod and used his settings, needs a little tweaking but very close.

You will be able to handle all the mods your self, it is very straight forward and some great pictorials available from http://www.wrrdualsport.com/ As you are doing the megabomb and q4, not much more involved.

I have bought Ballards grip heaters, it is a little colder down here in Victoria. I was never a beleiver, until i tried them.

rpo83 wrote:

I was never a beleiver, until i tried them.

Makes one helluva difference when the temps drop, don't they?!!

yeah i did a similar airbox mod to highfives but i just hacked at my box with a stanley knife and sidecutters!!! a bit neanderthal i know but it come up trumps after using a bit of wet & dry and file!!! im going to glue down a bit of fly screen over the intake to stop the bigger crap from getting down into the filter box.

anyway im gonna just spend all weekend just tampering and fiddling with the programmer until i get the desired result.

Don T wrote:

Mods:

Flapper removed, air box opend up "HighFive" style.
+ K&N air filter
+ AIS removed
+ EXUP valve and servo removed (used Graves servo eliminator)
+ O2 censor removed
+ FMF PowerBomb header
+ FMF Q4 silencer (not all that silent)
+ FMF PowerProgrammer set at 3-5-0.5-8-4-4
+ 13/50T sprockets
= Much more power (power wheeles in first 3 gears), no delay in throttle responce and smoother throttle responce at low rews (no more on/off)

Mind you that I use my WRR for off road only, and don't give a damn about fuel consumption - power and "rideability" is all that is important for me.

Are Don's above mods (except sprockets, and maybe different mapping) suitable for uncorking an X?

If fuel consumption becomes an issue I'd get a bigger tank too.

Many X riders have done those mods to their bikes, yes.

I am getting ready to install a FMF fuel programmer and need some help with what mapping numbers will work for me..I'm putting on a FMF powerbomb header/ Q4 slip on/ K+N air filter/ asi removal/ expu removal (i'm going to try the 10k resistor trick instead of the $60 Graves eliminator) / I'm going to modify the airbox highfive style/ new sprockets 13t-47t/ and I'm running dunlop 606s. I hope I'm not here but I was hoping to get some fuel programmer numbers from someone who has done the same mods...............is the programmer easy to install? I'm debating if I'm going to try these mods myself or bring it to a shop? If it involves splicing into wires than I'm going to bring it to a shop,,,any help would be great. thanx

No splicing needed. It's plug and play. As for numbers, most ppl start off with my settings, or the 3,3,3,8,8,8 settings with those mods. You can play around with the settings and find something that suits you best, or leave it if you like how the bike handles. It's a simple, easy to use unit.

Im running a RR with FmF q4
FmF power bomb
air box modded
ais removed

What Programmer should i get ?

Depends what you want to do with it. If you like to fine tune and dial right in, and have a laptop, go with the PCIII or PCV; you can download different maps to the unit. If you just want to be able to get on, ride, need to adjust a bit and keep riding, go with the Attitude or FMF. The latter two are the easier ones to use and you don't need a laptop.

Tossed on the FMF PowerProgrammer a few minutes ago, its a really simple and easy to install unit. Settings are a combination of HF's and 10cup's at

3 5 1 8 1 1

Pretty much everyone agrees on the first two fuel enrichment values to be 3 and 5 =/- 0.5. HF's dyno showed we don't need more fuel at WOT, so I put that at 1.

The RPM at cruise setting... set it higher than idle and leave it. If its set below idle, you'll be adding more fuel at idle where its not needed. I set the last two at 1 because I want the extra fueling to come on immediately as you twist the throttle to reduce chance of tip-in pinging or detonation.

Just my $.02 and thoughts on the subject.

Also, those of you planning to go riding into far off corners of the world where 91+ octane isn't available might want to consider getting a programmer too. Running a little more rich will hurt economy somewhat, but should held prevent pinging and detonation on crappy or low octane gas.

HELP,,,I tried installing my fmf programmer yesterday and gave up,I did the ais removal / expu removal / modified the airbox highfive style / installed the Q4 and powerbomb header.. everything was going smooth until I got to the programmer..It seems like there is something missing in the instructions, step#8 says that the gas tank can now be moved to gain access to the fuel injector connector. step#9 says attach the gen 3 ground to the negative post on the battery...it doesn't tell me where to hook up my conections, I'm assuming the bigger grey plug connects to the fuel injector, but where does the smaller black plug get connected to ?? the instructions takes a whole page to explain how to take your seat,sidepanels, and gas tank off but then it's vague about how to actually hook up the programmer.. thanx , Jason

It connects as a loop, and can only be connected one way (one plug end is smaller than the other). When you take the plug apart on your FI, mate the grey plug off the tuner to the FI plug on the bike that fits into it. Take the black plug from your tuner and plug it into the other end of the FI plug on the bike to complete the circuit. The plugs will be VERY snug. Mark had to modify his so the plug would actually go in far enuf to connect the snap tabs; mine (Attitude) went in tight but the snap tabs connected. The FMF and Attitude use the same hookup. Hope that helps.

I thought that's how it goes but I cannot seem to fit the black connector(from the programmer) into the fuel injector plug that was removed from the injector..the liitle nub on the black plug seems to be getting in the way of it fitting into the injector plug,,,what did mark do to make it work??? also one more obvious question...when I went to replace my sparkplug yesterday i noticed that my local yamaha dealership sold me a NGK CR9E and the plug that came out is a NGK CR9EK (which has 2 electrodes) Did the dealership make ANOTHER mistake or are these plugs interchangable..thanks,,Jason

I have a GYTR slip and a power commander V unit. No further mods were made to the bike but I'm trying to get a good map to test it.
Any sugestions? thanks!

Jay, afaik Mark very carefully removed part of the rubber boot so the plug would fit in far enuf for the snaps to connect. As for the dealer, it sounds like they gave you the better plug.

thanks Shewolf for the info but I've got another question,,I've got the programmer hooked up (I couldn't get the black plug to snap into the FI connector but I've got it jammed in there and taped up) ,,,I started the bike up and the #1 LED is flashing a green light ,,is this OK???,the instructions say "if #1 and #8 are still flashing after startup then check all connections to make sure they are in all the way" ,,,,if both #1 and#8 were flashing it would be obvious to me but since it is only the #1 flashing it makes me unsure,,,thanxs,,jason

CR9E and CR9EK are the same dimensionally, but with a single electrode on the E's and dual electrodes on the EK. They are interchangable, but the EK's are the better (more reliable spark on the dual electrode).

If both aren't flashing, I'd say your connected.

On the PP, the plug that connected to the injector went on like butter. The plug that connects to the wiring harness was difficult but eventually clipped. Didn't have to do anything fancy I think, nothing that was memorable anyways. I had to push down on the release pin I think to make sure it seated maybe? The little knub is there to make sure the two plugs don't come apart, just like the factory connector, ASSuming you tried to plug the connectors together correctly (they'll only go together one way). As an aside, the last thing I'd do to the electrical connectors on the the brandy new $200 controller is start cutting bits off... In general I find that if two things that are supposed to mate together aren't, 95% of the time its operator error not part error (a lesson learned the hard way after several years of wrenching and breaking stuff ). Take a step back, grab another beer, and look at it from a different angle.

I didn't find this little black box to be too hard to install and set, its pretty self explanatory once you're looking at the unit imo...

Skierd, thanks for the response,,I'm going to program it to your numbers seeing how we have similar mods.. thanx,JASON

Picked up a new 2009 on Friday. Fun bike to ride on the road and the bush (I have taken the bike to MacLean creek - just southwest of Calgary) two times already.

Can someone tell me which of the programmers are the cheapest to buy and where to buy? I am leaning towards the FMF or Attitude as I am unlikely to tinker much with it.

Thanks.

Mark K.

I'll wait until next winter to do the header + pipe + flapper + AIS removal, but want to go ahead with the FMF programmer right now.
Anyone find a price cheaper than this?

http://www.bustersdirtshop.com/product.php?productid=1662&cat=0&page=1

Any horror stories about ordering from busters?