The Official FI Mapping Area

rsteiger, do follow up once you get the PC5 set up. I'm in almost the same situation only I've been a little more satisfied with the FMF programmer. I have almost the same setup as you and I've dug up probably every thread on the fmf programmer before I even bought it trying to gauge expectations and then after I bought it again to try to figure out the best settings. Here's some observations I hope will help anyone else that comes across this thread:

1. I got the fmf pp primarily out of fear I was running too lean once I did the ultimate air box mod and added a pipe. Performance is a secondary goal. I do believe it is capable of my primary goal.
2. I've found two people that actually put the O2 sensor in the pipe and programmed on a dyno and I put WAY more stock into the settings they came up with than anything that came from a butt dyno. These two guys are highfive and steveakus. Here are the treads they posted highfive, steveakus.
3. So on the dyno highfive came up with 3-5-0.5-8-4-4 and steveakus had about the same findings. If you try these settings I'll bet you find that you have a stumble/hesitate/cutout when you accelerate from low rpm especially when the bike is a little cold. They did, and I did. I've found several threads complaining about this and the answer has always been to not set the fifth mode to 4. There is apparently a bug and most people find that the last three modes set to 8-6-4 gets rid of the stumble/hesitation/cutout. i've read that some found 7 worked better and one that went with 2. I've only tried 4 and 6. 4 sucks and 6 works fine, but I wouldn't call it responsive.
4. At high altitude you may need leaner settings. I ride at 8000ft give or take 3000 and I suspect this. Ramz rides at 8000ft and I believe I read him suspecting it as well, but I'd be great if anyone had any any concrete evidence of this and could chime in.
5. The bike runs too rich in the low rpm robbing if of low end torque and I don't know if there's a cheap way to lean it out where it apparently needs it most, so the mid rpm acceleration is really where the fmf programmer can be most effective.

The settings I ended up with are 3-4-0.5-8-6-4 at sea level and 2.5-3.5-0.5-8-6-4 at 8000ft. I don't want to run lean cruising but I don't mind going a little lean and getting what feels like a little more pull just when I'm accelerating so I chose to step down my mode 2 more than the settings that came from the dyno tunes. I'll probably try 7 and 2 for mode 5 to see if I can get it to pop a little harder when it's wrung.

The results so far are that it's smoothed out the power. Before the programmer I felt a surge after 7000 rpm. Now I don't and I assume that's because there's more power in the middle range leading into the high range. Like I said before I'm mostly looking for some peace of mind that my other mods didn't leave the motor lean all the time leading it to burn up early. Then again if it did burn up early I'd have an excuse to put a 290 kit on, so maybe my whole strategy is flawed. Which brings us to the real problem here: If we can put a man on the moon, then surely we can put a durable 450 in a modern 300lb Japanese dual sport. Hell, I might make that my signature. Hell, we all should make that our signature.

Well I got the PC5 installed and loaded up Power Commander #6 program to start.

Bike started like crap but seems to run well. Maybe the start was due in part to having the fuel tank off during the install.

Today I am turning it over to the Dyno guy's hands and should get it back later today.

I started out with HighFive's settings too and ended up with the engine cutoff. My last settings on the FMF was 2, 2, 0.5, 8, 8, 8 mainly in part because I was having a tough time telling the different LED colors - I even had my daughter lend a hand at this.

I could not tell any difference in performance other than the engine cuttoff was gone and I picked up 15 more miles before the low fuel light would come on my IMS 3.0 gallon tank.

One of the things I struggled with on the FMF is the shear difference in settings that are reported. It appears some time ago the module calibration was changed to allow more fuel to be added for the big bore kits. This might explain the variation in settings since people probably have different calibration levels. To me everything was becoming guess work.

Then I found a Dyno shop near by and my first thought was to have them tune it up but even then it would be a compromise since the FMF programmer does not allow you to adjust as fine as the PC5.

I guess we will see what happens today... my only regret is that I did not have them Dyno it with the FMF installed but that is extra money that I won't materially benefit from plus timing was a constraint on my part with the amount of business travel that I do.

So here is the tale of the Dyno:



25.69 HP @ 9100 RPM

I brought the bike over to him in the morning and we had a discussion about what I wanted out of the tuning. I chose to have a combination of fuel efficiency and good power / driveability and let him work out the details.

I used setting 6 from the preselected Power Commander settings. Setting 6 was for a WRR with the airbox top removed and a Leo Vince exhaust w/o spark arrestor. He told me the bike was generally running lean at that setup and he ended up adding some fuel. He dialed the bike in on the dyno then took it out for a spin and didn't like the low speed / low RPM throttle response and went back on the dyno to make some more adjustments.

To be honest my butt dyno can't really pick up a performance difference other than the bike runs smoother and starts better. I also like the peace of mind knowing that I am not running overly rich or lean.

So here is my set up on my WRR:

- AIS Removed
- Ultimate Air box mode plus the vacuum motor hole on the top (PC 5 is located under the headlight)
- Twin Air filter
- Stock header
- Two Brothers midpipe
- 2001 GSXR 1000 Titanium Silencer (4.1 lbs)
- FMF Spark Arrestor (fits like it was made for the GSXR can)

If you are interested in the calibration file just send me a PM and I will send it to you. Since my set up is a bit 'odd' I don't think I will get many requests.

From my experience on my DR650 the GSXR can flowed a little better than a FMF Q4 based on a dyno comparison. Not sure if the same is true for the WRR (based on todays experience it may flow more than the Leo Vince can) but I liked the GSXR can due to it's light weight, low noise level, and the fact it never needs repacking.

After riding the bike around for a whole season with various FMF settings and having a hand full of different results. I have finally settled on what is the most conservative, but most consistent and smooth setting I have tried yet. No matter what I tried I kept having small gaps in the power band. Sometimes my acceleration would be smooth, but other times it would be jerky. I think this inconsistency is due to the WOT sensitivity setting. This setting is very variable based on how fast you pull the throttle.

So anyways I settled on trying to smooth out the power band, I achieved this by not adding fuel more than once in the curve.

6, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5

foofighter wrote:

After riding the bike around for a whole season with various FMF settings and having a hand full of different results. I have finally settled on what is the most conservative, but most consistent and smooth setting I have tried yet. No matter what I tried I kept having small gaps in the power band. Sometimes my acceleration would be smooth, but other times it would be jerky. I think this inconsistency is due to the WOT sensitivity setting. This setting is very variable based on how fast you pull the throttle.

So anyways I settled on trying to smooth out the power band, I achieved this by not adding fuel more than once in the curve.

6, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5

What mods do you have?

I'm really shocked you have 0.5 as the fifth number, and are not having issues.

Based on many MANY other riders, and a technician from Dobeck - that number needs to be 6 or higher to prevent issues with bogs when you first jump on the throttle.

I have the flapper removed, airbox gutted, fmf Powercore exhaust, fmf power bomb header.

As far as I understand, ignoring what other people have said and going strictly based on the instructions of how the programmer works. The programmer adds fuel at three different points in the power band. Green can be set to add from idle all the way to redline, all you can change with green mode is the amount of fuel added which is your green value and the rpm at which green mode is activated. Yellow adds fuel only during acceleration based on the sensitivity you have set with the 5th Yellow/Blue mode. Then similar to Yellow mode, Red mode only adds fuel at WOT again based on the sensitivity you have set on Red/Blue mode.

What I didn't like about using Yellow and Red modes was at some point in the power band those two modes would randomly turn on based on how hard you were accelerating. So it gave the give a turbo charger feel. Sure you get a bit kick of power, but its unpredictable and gives the bike a feeling of almost having turbo lag haha. So I have been running only Green mode now for about 3 days and so far so good.

foofighter wrote:

I have the flapper removed, airbox gutted, fmf Powercore exhaust, fmf power bomb header.

As far as I understand, ignoring what other people have said and going strictly based on the instructions of how the programmer works. The programmer adds fuel at three different points in the power band. Green can be set to add from idle all the way to redline, all you can change with green mode is the amount of fuel added which is your green value and the rpm at which green mode is activated. Yellow adds fuel only during acceleration based on the sensitivity you have set with the 5th Yellow/Blue mode. Then similar to Yellow mode, Red mode only adds fuel at WOT again based on the sensitivity you have set on Red/Blue mode.

What I didn't like about using Yellow and Red modes was at some point in the power band those two modes would randomly turn on based on how hard you were accelerating. So it gave the give a turbo charger feel. Sure you get a bit kick of power, but its unpredictable and gives the bike a feeling of almost having turbo lag haha. So I have been running only Green mode now for about 3 days and so far so good.

Interesting theory, but the green mode is only "cruise" so in your settings, once you crack the throttle to accelerate, it is going to go from adding 6 "units" of additional fuel to not adding any. I haven't tried it, but I would think it would feel sort of flat in accelerating, and would run very rich while cruising. I don't think you will have the problem with the 5th number, because you aren't adding any fuel in accel mode anyway.

The more I read about these things, the more it seems like you need to set it where you like it. There are too many variations in climate, altitude, individual bike, taste, etc., so if your numbers work for you...

okay guys

Just installed my FMF programmer

I dont get the stream of lights

I only get the 1 green light and one red light blink when I turn on the bike.

I made sure all the connections were plugged in all the way and I even added dielectric grease


any ideas??

LordMDP wrote:

okay guys

Just installed my FMF programmer

I dont get the stream of lights

I only get the 1 green light and one red light blink when I turn on the bike.

I made sure all the connections were plugged in all the way and I even added dielectric grease


any ideas??

Mine does the same thing, don't sweat it. Not sure if it is a different firmware or something, but it seems to be working.

Yeah, mine doesn't do that at startup, and I've read several others that don't do that either. Like mentioned by LordMDP, mine just flashes a single alternating green and red LED for a few seconds, then settles in.

dmmcd wrote:

LordMDP wrote:

okay guys

Just installed my FMF programmer

I dont get the stream of lights

I only get the 1 green light and one red light blink when I turn on the bike.

I made sure all the connections were plugged in all the way and I even added dielectric grease


any ideas??

Mine does the same thing, don't sweat it. Not sure if it is a different firmware or something, but it seems to be working.

I was concerned because of this: but I guess mine and yours dont continue flashing--they just flash when you first turn the bike on so i guess were good?

foofighter wrote:

Intro:
Start the motorcycle. The green LEDs should scroll across for a few seconds and then go to flashing or solid green. If the #1 green and #8 red LEDs continue flashing after startup check to make sure that the connections are plugged in all the way and that no pins are pushed out of the connectors. If this doesn't fix the problem please contact our tech support department. It is recommended that the pre-programmed settings of the FMF Power Programmer be used. However, the FMF Power Programmer can be adjusted to suit different engine modifications, states of tune and environmental conditions.

LordMDP wrote:

I was concerned because of this: but I guess mine and yours dont continue flashing--they just flash when you first turn the bike on so i guess were good?

foofighter wrote:

Intro:
Start the motorcycle. The green LEDs should scroll across for a few seconds and then go to flashing or solid green. If the #1 green and #8 red LEDs continue flashing after startup check to make sure that the connections are plugged in all the way and that no pins are pushed out of the connectors. If this doesn't fix the problem please contact our tech support department. It is recommended that the pre-programmed settings of the FMF Power Programmer be used. However, the FMF Power Programmer can be adjusted to suit different engine modifications, states of tune and environmental conditions.

Yep. I was concerned too, because the previous owner did the install so I actually took it off, checked all the connections and put it back on. It flashes like 3 or 4 times at startup, then goes to steady green, so I think it's good.

Okay--I have all the usual mods as well and "CO" setting on 2

i'm running: 3/ 5.5/ .5/ 8/ 6/ 4/

Acceration is awesome--everything down low feels great

my only issue is when full throttle (mostly in 5th or 6th) gear; when i let off the throttle it stumbles for 1/4 second. Not a huge problem but very annoying and it does it every time.

Anyone else get that problem?

LordMDP wrote:

Okay--I have all the usual mods as well and "CO" setting on 2

i'm running: 3/ 5.5/ .5/ 8/ 6/ 4/

Acceration is awesome--everything down low feels great

my only issue is when full throttle (mostly in 5th or 6th) gear; when i let off the throttle it stumbles for 1/4 second. Not a huge problem but very annoying and it does it every time.

Anyone else get that problem?

Not sure how much you played with the settings but I was running the same except for the 5th number being a 4 instead of a 6 and got the dreaded cut off. I mucked about with the settings a bit more and finally settled on 2/ 2/ 0.5/ 8/ 8/ 8 and could not really tell that much difference in performance but my low fuel light came on 10 miles later.

At that time I decided I did not have a clue what the programmer was doing and found a dyno shop.

rsteiger wrote:

At that time I decided I did not have a clue what the programmer was doing and found a dyno shop.

And what settings did the dyno shop come up with?????

motokid wrote:

rsteiger wrote:

At that time I decided I did not have a clue what the programmer was doing and found a dyno shop.

And what settings did the dyno shop come up with?????

After a conversation with the Dyno guy I decided to go with the PC 5 setup with some dyno runs to find the best A/F ratio for the bike (see a few posts above). Opted not to go with the Autotune feature at this point.

From what I have learned Dyno tuning finds the best A/F ratio for your bike depending on what you are looking for. They will then make a map with several runs and some street riding to validate what is going on. To compensate for different conditions the FI system uses a pressure sensor to modify the fuel delivery based on the amount of air being delivered to the motor. This system works well for small changes and is like an open loop control system.

Autotune will then make corrections via the trim tables to hold that A/F ratio as your environment or riding style changes - sort of like a closed loop control system. Much more robust to larger scale changes than an open loop system.

2011 X

-normal air box mods, flapper delete...etc
-removed air box door
-twin air dual stage air filter
-fmf powercore 4 pipe, (stock header pipe)
-fmf programer
-gearing 12/43.....soon to be 13/47


Ive tried 3 different settings and tooled with it a bit. but this seems to be the best for my bike! and it ripppps now!

Kinda supprised with this little 250 beast haha

3-5-0.5-8-4-4

Might go up to 1 or 1.5 on the red (third number)

since im not adding any more fuel at wot kinda scares me a little lol

Hey all... I have noticed everyone has found a slightly different setting they like for their bike. I have just bought my WR250R this spring. I am doing all the usual mods but have yet to see someone with the same set up I am going with. I am looking for a starting point on the FMF Power Programmer. My Mods include....

AIR BOX FLAPPER MOD
AIS REMOVAL
EXUP SERVO ELIMINATOR
FMF POWER CORE 4
FMF MEGA BOMB HEADER
FMF POWER PROGRAMMER

Also has anyone had any problems with their bike caused by using improper settings? Just wondering how easy it is to damage the motor by setting the programmer wrong. Thanks for reading, look forward to your input...

Some people have the same pipe as you, dont even get a programmer and their bikes dont blow up.

You wont hurt the bike, it just wont run as good as it should.

I ended up using the default fmf settings execpt for the 5th # its on 6, after trying a bunch of different settings.

just put about 400 km on my new setup with a powercore 4 and fmf programmer and just checked my plug.....well really lean. going on a trip to deals gap tomorrow and need help on how to work this thing. my numbers are 3-2-0.5-8-4-4, which is what came on the box when i installed it

IMO looking at the plug is a total waste of time...

You also need to cut the threads off the plug and look at the base of the porclyn to do a proper plug reading, which next to no one ever does, most peole just look at the tip.

With the additives in the gas the plug electrode always looks whitish, the only way to get the electrode darker is running crazy rich, so rich the bike runs badly. 

well it doesnt matter....i was talking to my engine builder and im getting a dyno jet box.....and i have a ngk spark plug reader so i can see the base of the plug just fine thank you very much!!!!

Just finished all the common mods and my homemade custom exhaust, with a "dirty bomb". (power bomb shape, mega bomb size) Cut exup out and welded in a baby bomb. cat gone, and 10 to 12 holes in the baffle. Im in Colorado Springs where elevation is 6,035ft.

FMF settings, 4, 4.5, 1, 4, 3 , 4

I have not played with these settings, because they are working really well for me! Ive had bike for 2 years now it feels like an all new one.

 

does anyone have a PCV map for AIS/EXUP/flapper/airbox door removed/Graves exhaust?

I'm running the PCV map for the Graves with the airbox door removed but I feel like it might be too lean and the autotune is a little out of my budget right now

email is bsajeevan@gmail.com