Just bought '09 wr250x (first bike ever), got some ??'s

So I just bought my first motorcycle. I got a '09 WR250X.
Here's some pics before I get to the questions I have




I really love my new bike, but I am kind of concerned about some things. First, I noticed a piece of fuzz, a string or something, stuck into the exhaust. I asked the guy about and he said it wasn't anything to worry about, but he was trying to sell me the bike so I don't know.


Then there is this foil looking stuff near the exhaust pipe. I figure it's to protect that part of the bike from the heat, and my only concern is I'm wondering if it needs to be replaced or redone. The foil stuff looks pretty beat up--does it need to be replaced?

This part of the foil stuff looks in good condition, and what I was comparing the beat up part to...

And finally...there is this orange looking rust type of stuff on the back of the headlight. Anything to worry about or something that needs to be dealt with?


Anyways...I know thats a lot of pictures and questions, but like I said, this is my first bike so any help is greatly appreciated. I am stoked to own a wr250x and just want to take care of it as best as possible so it last as long as it can. Making the bike last is really my MAIN priority. I am glad to be a part of this forums and sure I'll be participating more in the future. Thanks!

The fuzz is exhaust packing, dont sweat it. Nothing to worry about at all.

The back of the headlight, its hard to tell but I would guess its the exterior coating coming off from heat? does it have an HID bulb or the factory? I would examine the reflector to make sure the inside side is still shiny. If its not, you may be losing some headlight power. Pretty much just look through the glass and see if the reflector doesnt have the same damage as the outside.

As for the heat insulation, as long as its still on there it should be ok. If the edges are a little screwed up, its probably just from washing the bike vigorously. If its pretty screwed up, you can buy that stuff for 10 or 15 bucks a roll.

If you want something to check, check the chain slack and make sure the plastic guards aren't eaten up. Dont ever want the chain eating into metal. Gets expensive. Would also change the oil after carefully reading the manual on how (most important bit is to fill it by volume, ignore that lil window).

You've bought a stunt bike. Did you know that when you bought it?

HUGE rear sprocket and stunt pegs give it away.

It's a totally custom fabricated exhaust from the FmF header back.

Might be worth taking off the seat and looking under some body panels too.

Check the airbox. See what's going on there.

Is there a efi programmer somewhere?

Hey guys thanks for the replys. Really appreciate it.

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Would also change the oil after carefully reading the manual on how (most important bit is to fill it by volume, ignore that lil window).

yea I downloaded the owners manuel from yamaha and am reading it right now. I figure I'll change the oil when I learn how

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You've bought a stunt bike. Did you know that when you bought it?
HUGE rear sprocket and stunt pegs give it away.

not exactly, but I knew what the stunt pegs were so I figured the guy that had it before was all about that. Don't really know what a rear sprocket is though...Anyways, I don't plan to do any stunts. I just want to get from point A to point B. I was attracted to the bike cuz its a dual sport, but predominately suited for the street. I also like the good MPG the bike gets.

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Might be worth taking off the seat and looking under some body panels too.

Check the airbox. See what's going on there

I'm reading the owners manuel cuz I don't know how to take off the seat or check the airbox. Seriously, I know nothing about motorcycles but I figure I gotta start somewhere.

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Is there a efi programmer somewhere

Maybe...not exactly sure what that is, but there is a Dynojet Power Commander III USB, this thing (http://www.gravesport.com/Dynojet-Yamaha-WR250X-WR250R-PC3-USB-2008.html) I do have a question about this. I haven't found anywhere that says you can use the Dynojet PCIII on a 2009 wr250x, it just says it's for the '08. From what I understand your supposed to use the Dynojet PCV on a '09 wr250x. I don't know though...the bike ride's alright so I'm guessing the PCIII isn't hurting anything..?

I would never "ignore the little window" when changing the oil.

That's not good advice.


Yes - you have LOTS to learn.

A PC3 and a PC5 will work on any model year. There's no difference in the years other than color.

Yes - a PC3 is an efi controller.


Most likely the previous owner did some mods to the intake on your bike.

The AIS has probably been removed as well as the flapper door removed or glued down. Possibly an after-market air filter or even the airbox door removed.

Since you have a custom under-tail exhaust there's a good chance the above stuff is done.

Your rear sprocket looks HUGE. Count the teeth. I'd bet it's 50 teeth. That pretty big for regular street use.

Hopefully the speedometer has a correction device somewhere with a gearing change for stunting.

Before you go riding about too much see if you can verify your speed against a GPS or perhaps a friend in a car.

If there's no speedometer corrector, your Yamaha speedometer might be off by as much as 25%.

Read around this forum a lot. There's a wealth of information here. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Try to use the search feature before starting new topics.

Enjoy your new toy.

By the way - to remove the seat there are two bolts above the rear tire that bolt the seat down. Not sure how you'll get to those with the under-tail exhaust.

Hard to tell it there's clearance for a socket or wrench between the muffler and underside of the seat.

It would suck if you'd have to remove muffler canister just to get the seat off?

motokid thanks for all the great info.

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Your rear sprocket looks HUGE. Count the teeth. I'd bet it's 50 teeth. That pretty big for regular street use.

I couldn't really count it cuz the chain covered a bunch of them, but the number "53" was on it, so I'm assuming that's the amount of teeth. Based on the few I did count and overall size of the sprocket that seems right. Does the rear sprocket size affect MPG?

I hope the way the bike is will at least work for a commuter for now, cuz I really have NO more money right now to spend on this bike. I'm going to pay for insurance and probably a basic service/inspection (guy at yamaha dealer said it'd be $150 and he'd change the oil and stuff) and then I won't have any money for parts or anything.

EDIT: I don't know what the general opinion is regarding getting your bike serviced at a dealer here (i'm assuming a lot of you all can do that stuff yourselves), but I'm thinking for a person like me (total newbie) it might be smart to take it to a dealer for a basic service and inspection. I mean, I did buy it used and it has a lot of aftermarket changes. I want to be sure that the guy did everything right. IDK...think I'd get anything worthwhile out of that basic service/inspection at the yamaha dealer or would it just be a waste of $150? The yamaha service manuel had like 2 pages of stuff that it said should be checked every 3k miles, and it recommended to take it to a yamaha dealership. I feel like if they will actually check all that and make sure it's all in order that'd be something I'd pay for, but idk...I just want this bike to last a really long time for me. I want to make sure I do everything I can (mainly what I can afford) to take of this bike and get the longest lifespan possible out of it.

53!!!!!

Jesussssssss.........I thought it looked like a dinner plate.


Stock is 42. Does that give you an idea of how big it is?

That size sprocket will effect a great deal of how the bike feels and goes through the gears.

I'd bet your top speed is not much higher than 70 mph.

Makes me wonder what your front sprocket size is.

Did you get any of the parts the previous owner removed? Any of the stock stuff?

If you're not going to stunt, I'd be making a gearing change down to something below 50.
That will require cutting your chain shorter.

Can't wait to hear what else you find as you dig into this bike.

btomp2008 wrote:

EDIT: I don't know what the general opinion is regarding getting your bike serviced at a dealer here (i'm assuming a lot of you all can do that stuff yourselves), but I'm thinking for a person like me (total newbie) it might be smart to take it to a dealer for a basic service and inspection. I mean, I did buy it used and it has a lot of aftermarket changes. I want to be sure that the guy did everything right. IDK...think I'd get anything worthwhile out of that basic service/inspection at the yamaha dealer or would it just be a waste of $150? The yamaha service manuel had like 2 pages of stuff that it said should be checked every 3k miles, and it recommended to take it to a yamaha dealership. I feel like if they will actually check all that and make sure it's all in order that'd be something I'd pay for, but idk...I just want this bike to last a really long time for me. I want to make sure I do everything I can (mainly what I can afford) to take of this bike and get the longest lifespan possible out of it.

Without getting too specific - where do you live?

There might be somebody here close to you that could help you out.

There's a reason people call dealerships "stealerships".

Before going to one for a service - I'd see if I could find somebody close by that might be able to help.

Just my 2 cents.

nice bike!
are you going to stunt that thing?

bobbytohn wrote:

are you going to stunt that thing?

He already answered that. "No" was the answer.

+ 1 on "ignore the little check window" being bad advice when changing oil. In my 23 years of riding I've never heard anyone say to ignore the check window or dipstick and fill by volume. Overfilling with oil is not good!

WRXZ wrote:

+ 1 on "ignore the little check window" being bad advice when changing oil. In my 23 years of riding I've never heard anyone say to ignore the check window or dipstick and fill by volume. Overfilling with oil is not good!

+100

In my experience the "check oil level window" has always been way MORE important than using the manual's recommendations as gospel.

my bad motokid
im interested in the stunt parts of that bike if there not going to be use??

btomp2008 wrote:

So I just bought my first motorcycle.

You need to take a motorcycle safety class.

Are you familiar with how a motorcycle works? Can you emergency brake? Do you know what counter-steering is? Are you aware that the front brake is your most important stopping device and not the rear brake?

I'm not accusing you of anything - but based on your posts I'm extrapolating out these thoughts.


Please make sure you take a class on riding on the street.

You may also want to get some rear view mirrors for that bike. And check to see if the license plate is mounted in a legal place for where you live.

Where I live a cop would pull me over for that.

speaking of saftey

check your speedo with that big rear spocket it could be way off if a speedo healer was not installed

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You need to take a motorcycle safety class.

yea I'm taking one in three days. its required in Texas to get a motorcycle liscense.

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Without getting too specific - where do you live?

Also, I am in McKinney, Texas. Just north of Dallas. If anyone around here has a WR250X or works on bikes pm me or something. I'd pay you to help me out with and educate me about this bike, seeing as it's my first bike n all.

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I'd bet your top speed is not much higher than 70 mph.

Makes me wonder what your front sprocket size is.

Did you get any of the parts the previous owner removed? Any of the stock stuff?

If you're not going to stunt, I'd be making a gearing change down to something below 50.
That will require cutting your chain shorter.

Don't care to much about top speed right now, but I am concerned as to weather or not that big rear sprocket is gonna affect my MPG? I was also curious as to what my front sprocket size is but I couldnt find it. And no, unforunately I have none of the stock parts.

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im interested in the stunt parts of that bike if there not going to be use??

I like the pegs cuz they'll protect my bike if I crash it, but I am interested in getting more appropiate size sprockets for my riding style (prob something closer to stock sizes, unless there's a size that gets the best MPG). So basically, I might trade you sprockets or something, if thats even a worthwhile/possible thing for us to do. I'm gussing it's probably not going to be since I'd have to shell out money I don't have to install new sprockets and cut my chain and do w/e is required.

Quote :

speaking of saftey

check your speedo with that big rear spocket it could be way off if a speedo healer was not installed

not yet, but motokid also suggested that, and I will check it against a family members car soon. is there anyway to tell if a speedo healer was installed?

bobbytohn wrote:

speaking of saftey

check your speedo with that big rear spocket it could be way off if a speedo healer was not installed

Beat you to that too.....

damn it motokid

ill back down haha

Get somebody to drive the posted speed limit exactly.

Follow them and see what your speedo is reading.

Find a road that's at least 35 mph or so and see what you get.

Then find one that's 50 mph and see what your speedo says.

bobbytohn wrote:

damn it motokid

ill back down haha

sweet, thanks for the info guys

and motokid...

motokid wrote:

By the way - to remove the seat there are two bolts above the rear tire that bolt the seat down. Not sure how you'll get to those with the under-tail exhaust.

Hard to tell it there's clearance for a socket or wrench between the muffler and underside of the seat.

It would suck if you'd have to remove muffler canister just to get the seat off?

I checked this out and there are 2 bolts in the area you described that are accessible with a wrench. I didn't mess with them though...those are the only 2 bolts holding that seat down? Nothing else towards the front of the seat?

Also, with the modifications you can see, and the ones you can probably assume, how has the MPG of this bike been affected. Stock says its 71, and I've seen people online report getting a range from 60-90 mpg. Think all these stunt mods brought the MPG up or down from stock?

Gas mileage is right-hand dependent.

Some here get 70 mpg and more.

Many are in the 50-60 mpg range.

Some get less than 50 mpg.

The stunt gearing you have is not going to help, but much depends on how you control the throttle.

Your geared to lift that front wheel off the ground with very little effort.

Yes - only two bolts hold seat down. The front of the seat is captured in a different manner. A tongue (so to speak) slides up into a slot. Then the bolts hold everything in place. You can't lift up the front of the seat. You have to unbolt the rear to remove seat.

motokid wrote:

WRXZ wrote:

+ 1 on "ignore the little check window" being bad advice when changing oil. In my 23 years of riding I've never heard anyone say to ignore the check window or dipstick and fill by volume. Overfilling with oil is not good!

+100

In my experience the "check oil level window" has always been way MORE important than using the manual's recommendations as gospel.

I just use it to verify and later verify that I haven't lost any oil. My logic is I dont see how you can hurt an engine putting in the exact amount it was designed to run with, at most it could have a tiny bit extra if you didnt fully drain. Meanwhile with the window you can under-fill or over-fill based on the angle of the bike.