Just bought '09 wr250x (first bike ever), got some ??'s

Berwyn Henderson wrote:

First, let me say that gas mileage is related to what the bike thinks it has covered compaired to what it has really covered. Changing gearing (down) may even improve gas mileage on the surface. But in realality the bike just thinks it went that far but did not. By going to standard gearing one is more likely to be going closer to the real distance. I only live about fifty or so miles from Mckenny, as I live in Southlake. I have had my wr250r for a couple years and have done all the mods myself (lots) plus am doing lots to two other friends bikes in area. I am willing to help get your bike sorted out if you want. You have a great bike but not set up for your use. It can be so much better for mostly transportation use. I do hope to hear from you. Berwyn

hey berwyn, sent you a PM. hope to hear back from you.

Good lordy, if there was ever a shining example of why I'll never buy someone elses project bike or car again, this is it.

I wish still had an OE 42T rear sprocket, just tossed it doing some spring cleaning knowing I'll never put it back on, because I'd send it to you.. I may still have my stock lower chain block, otherwise the guide and rubber and bolts aren't terribly expensive.

If you ditch the stunt pegs, you can go back to a standard exhaust that mounts to the right side of the bike. You'll be less likely to cook the ECU and other wiring with that exhaust than the current undertail exhaust and be able to get to your seat bolts.

Did the previous owner supply the OE parts for the crap he added? Like the stock taillight, stock exhaust, suspension linkage, pegs, passenger pegs, sprockets, etc?

As far as learning how to work on the bike, fortunately this is a pretty simple machine to maintain.

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I may still have my stock lower chain block, otherwise the guide and rubber and bolts aren't terribly expensive.

That would be awesome. I'd pay for shipping and everything.

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If you ditch the stunt pegs, you can go back to a standard exhaust that mounts to the right side of the bike. You'll be less likely to cook the ECU and other wiring with that exhaust than the current undertail exhaust and be able to get to your seat bolts.

I like the under the tail exhaust. I'm pretty sure it's a better exhaust than stock as well. What's the ECU and other wiring your referring to? There is this tape that protects the bike from heat all over where the exhaust tube runs. What if I put header wrap on? Would that help protect the bike? Moving back to stock exhaust just seems like a process not worth going through to me. Remember...as of now I have to pay for all this work. I'm already probably going to drop $400 getting a major service done at a yamaha dealership and switching out some parts and stuff.

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Did the previous owner supply the OE parts for the crap he added? Like the stock taillight, stock exhaust, suspension linkage, pegs, passenger pegs, sprockets, etc?

No, none at all.

Youd be much better served to spent that $400 on tools and learning to maintain your ride. All you need is a good allen wrench set (craftsmen is quality and inexpensive), particularly a 4mm 5mm and 6mm, socket set (8mm 10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm and a 22mm and 27mm for the wheel nuts) for a 3/8" drive ratchet, a few extensions, and a couple jis or phillips screwdriver. A torque wrench too, 3/8"drive beam style is cheap and fine too. Should cost no more than $50-100 for the tools minus the torque wrench. The manual is available for download I believe pm shewolf.

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Youd be much better served to spent that $400 on tools and learning to maintain your ride.

yea. I plan to be able to do that. I was thinking I could possibly handle changing the oil and coolant fluids out. I didn't know what type of coolant and oil to use though. I have a wal mart gift card, so preferably something I can buy there. any suggestions? I do want to get the best quality stuff for the bike, so if wal mart doesn't offer that then I'll go some where else.

edit: I ordered a hard copy of the owners manuel and got that. I checked the coolant level, oil level, and chain slack to make sure they were good and they were. Big step for me considering when I bought the bike I didn't know what a rear sprocket was. Anyways, I am reading it everyday and trying to learn about what to do and stuff, but it's not easy for me. I'm not a mechanic or automotive person by nature.

If you could suggest the 3 easiest, cheapest things I can do to make sure my bike is good or to service the bike in the best way what would you suggest? I figure changing the oil and oil filter is key...I might try and tackle that myself.

Oil & oil filter

air filter

chain slack

motokid wrote:

Oil & oil filter

air filter

chain slack

Thanks motokid! Ok, chain slack is CHECKED! It was about 1.4-1.5 inches.

I figured out where to get the oil filter (and I'm sure they will sell air filters also), but what kind of oil do you recommend motokid? Can it be purchased at wal mart?

Some people here swear by Rotella brand which Wal-mart does sell.

I chose to go with something different. There's many MANY threads and opinions on oil here as well as every other motorcycle forum around.

I also do my best to NEVER shop at wal-mart and when needing oil for motorcycle, I buy from local motorcycle shop. I feel it's best to give them some business.
Wal-mart does not need my money.

click me <---


Also - for your reading pleasure: oil section <-- clicky

Quick tip on replacing the oil filter:

Be sure you have the rubber "O" rings in place on the filter cover. There are two of them. Small one and large one.

When tightening the three oil cover bolts, be very VERY careful. They are butter soft. Very easy to torque bolt head right off.

When putting oil back into bike, my recommendation is to use the sight glass as your guide. Don't just measure out the quantity the instructions tell you to use and pour it in.

But that's just my thoughts and opinions.

The air filter on WR250R and X's, at least stock, is made out of washable foam that needs to be oiled to filter air. Most aftermarket filters are the same way. You don't replace them every time, you wash them (I use regular plain Dawn dish soap, but there are filter specific cleaners out there too) and re-oil using a air-filter specific oil. I use either Unifilter's or PJ1, both available at any motorcycle shop. If your air filter looks like its made out of red cloth, its a K&N air filter and probably doesn't need to be cleaned (if it does, you have to use K&N's specific oil and cleaner, available at most auto parts stores).

To get to the air filter, you'll need a 5mm allen wrench and a phillips screwdriver. Use the allen to undo the single button head bolt that holds the right side panel on (rider's right), take off the side panel, and use the phillips screwdriver to open the airbox door. The filter is held in place by a clip and is wrapped around a metal cage, to clean you'll take it out and off the cage. I usually wash it with dawn dish soap in a bucket of warm water or a utility sink, depending where I am lol. Let it dry for a few hours in the sun or under a fan, overnight is better. Follow the directions on your can of filter oil to oil it. Then replace. It'll be easier to get the side panel on and off if you remove the seat first (2 8mm bolts under the bike in the rear wheel well, above the exhuast can on your bike), but its not necessary. If you do remove the seat, make sure the front of the seat catches the knob on the tank and that the little horn sticking out slides under the hump on the frame, should be obvious when you're there looking at it.

Oil and oil filters...

Filter's you'll need to buy at the dealership, or order online. Dealership is usually $12ea, online $7ea. I typically order 2-3 at a time along with other parts to avoid needing to place an order specifically for them. I prefer OEM Yamaha filters. For the first change, just go to your local dealer. I like to order from Yamaha Sports Plaza as they're really cheap for parts http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/ . Service Honda is in Texas I think and will order parts for Yamaha too, almost as cheap and likely a lot faster to ship for you.

Oil - People love to debate this till they're blue in the face and pissed off at each other, but the basic requirement is for an oil rated JASO MA, which is a japanese rating system stating the oil is safe for wet clutches like our bikes have, and an oil not listed as "energy conserving". I've used Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w40 from Walmart most frequently, its cheap and lasts a good long time (I usually change when the shifting gets notchy). I've also used Amsoil 10w40, Mobil1 motorcycle 10w40, Yamalube regular, semi syn, and synthetic, Motorex, regular 15w40 Rotella, Golden Spectro, and probably a few others. As long as its a JASO MA oil or a diesel truck oil, you're fine. Since you've got the walmart gift card, go ahead and get the Rotella Synthetic and an oil drain pan and funnel while you're there.

To completely change the oil, you need:
2quarts of oil
1 oil filter
8mm wrench or socket
12mm wrench or socket
If using sockets, either a 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet. I prefer a 1/4" drive for the 8mm bolts and 3/8" for the drain bolt.

I usually drain the oil on the side stand, you can use a center stand if you like though.

The oil filler plug is on the right side of the motor above the sight glass. Unscrew the plug and set aside. Place the funnel in the hole so you don't forget to add oil.

Remove the oil drain bolt on the bottom of the motor using the 12mm socket. Remember lefty loosey, righty tighty and remember that the bolt is upside down lol. Sit and let the oil drain completely, then tilt the bike towards you if its on the side stand then back down after a few seconds to get the rest of the oil out.

After tilting the bike and while letting the rest of the oil drain, remove the 3 8mm bolts holding on the oil filter cover. There are two o-rings attached to the cover, make sure they come off and are still in their grooves. Make sure they're clean and intact, if they aren't damage and likely they won't be they won't need to be replaced. I've yet to replace mine. Remove the old filter, install the new filter (only goes in one way), and carefully reinstall the cover. The botls are soft and the torque spec is only 10ft#'s of torque, so basically hand tighten then use the wrench to tighten them a quarter turn past snug. They don't need to be super godzilla torqued down, just tight enough.

Put the drain plug back in once the oil has stopped coming out. Torque in a similar fashion, the spec is 17ft#'s, so again basically a quarter turn past snug.

Pour a quart in as you'll always need at least one quart. The spec is 1300cc (or 1.3L or 1.25qt basically) for a change, so carefully add a dollop of oil from the second quart. Tilt the bike level and check the sight glass. Keep adding oil until the level is between the two lines on the sight glass. Reinstall the fill plug, and wipe everything down cause you're done!

Sounds more complicated than it is, especially since I listed every little thing, it only takes 15-20mins once you're used to it. At most 30 mins.

hey man i'm off to walmart tommorrow. thanks so much for typing that out!sounds doable for me for sure. oyea, found a dealership that sells filters as well