Error Code 18: Stuck servo motor

Yeah, that we do. Ed...I have something with your name written all over it.

SheWolf wrote:

Yeah, that we do. Ed...I have something with your name written all over it.

A bong perhaps?

So where the hell is zdenton??????????

I am dying to know what's going on.

motokid wrote:

A bong perhaps?

How about the whole plantation?

I found the plug this morning. Thank you so much for the pictures they made all the difference in the world. I removed the plug from the back of the servo and it looks just like the one from the pictures. When I turned my machine on though I had an error code 17, " unconnected or short circuit of the servo". Will this go away with the resistors. I also really need to know exactly what resistors I need. After reading all the post, I am confused on that one. I really hope I can get read of these error codes. Please help!

So now I'm confused.

You still had the servo motor connected and were getting error code 18.
Then you disconnected the servo and are now getting error code 17??????

I've been running mine for well over a year with the servo connected, but no cables and no EXUP
and I never get an error code.


Have you tried reconnecting the servo to that plug to see if the code goes away, or goes back to 18?

Sort of a servo reboot so to speak?

zdenton wrote:

Inside this black bow were several small wheels similar to what you see in an older watch, and the two cables went into this box. I do not know if this box was and is the servo or not. I removed the cables and the parts that were inside the box as I knew they would fall out while riding.

Did you remove the part the crudely drawn red arrow is pointing at?

That's the only thing inside my servo unit that the push-pull cables from the exhaust connected to.

zdenton wrote:

Inside this black box were several small wheels similar to what you see in an older watch, and the two cables went into this box. I do not know if this box was and is the servo or not. I removed the cables and the parts that were inside the box as I knew they would fall out while riding. There are no wires running from this box to unplug or plug as far as I can see so I do not know what the hell is going on! Zac

The guts have been pulled out by the sound of it. You need to go get a 7.5k resistor to bypass the code. I'd do what I had said earlier, plug the servo unit back in and then fire up the bike to see if it clears. If it doesn't, take that box the hell out of there, put the resistor in, and fire up the bike again just to make sure you don't code. No code, silicone up the plug with the resistor in it, tuck it away and go riding.

Yeah - I'm real confused on the EXACT resistor needed, and what might work.

7.5 - or 7.5k - or 75k ??????????

Would a 10 or 10k work?




The above is a google image of 7.5k resistors (I think- hard to trust at this point) and they have different colors than Shewolfs.

Aren't those color rings standardized?

According to this site:

click me

7.5k colors should be purple(violet), green, red, gold

Yeah, they are supposed to be 7.5K. Mine are indeed, 7.5, period. It is working, mind you...hasn't thrown a code since the day I put it in. When I asked the guy at the electronics shop for the 7.5k, that's what he gave me. Musta figured I meant just 7.5, I dunno. All I know is that the one I have in there is working. Before I had those big honking one in there...and if I remember they weren't 7.5K together either; they were 10. Still worked. I just didn't like the bulk of it and got the one I have in there now (and a spare)which is nice and slim.

I took out the part that your crudely drawn red arrow is pointing at. I had to as I could not disconnect the cables from it. Lack of knowledge I guess. Yes, the servo was still plugged into the back of the EXUP, "I think that is what it was plugged into". I have not plugged the servo cable back in as I was hoping the resistors will fix both error codes 17 and 18. I had error code 18 at first because I disconnected the cables running into something "either EXUP or servo motor I do not know" as mentioned earlier. This morning when I found the cable you had posted pictures of the error code 17 came up after I unplugged that cable. I could plug this back in, but would then not have anywhere to put the resistors. I need to find the resistors I think Radioshack or Circuit City. After this, I have to figure out how to install my HMF programmer. I hope when all is said and done I can get rid of that stupid CEL!

Zack, try plugging the servo back together, and fire up the bike first. See if that clears the 18 code. If it doesn't then do the resistor. Unless you want to take out the whole servo unit, you can leave it in there if plugging the unit back in clears the code. Some guys just leave it in there, but most of us yank it out and do the resistor job. Either way, the main thing is to ride!

SheWolf wrote:

Yeah, they are supposed to be 7.5K. Mine are indeed, 7.5, period. It is working, mind you...hasn't thrown a code since the day I put it in. When I asked the guy at the electronics shop for the 7.5k, that's what he gave me. Musta figured I meant just 7.5, I dunno. All I know is that the one I have in there is working. Before I had those big honking one in there...and if I remember they weren't 7.5K together either; they were 10. Still worked. I just didn't like the bulk of it and got the one I have in there now (and a spare)which is nice and slim.

That's where the confusion is.

That "K", in my opinion is kinda huge.

So is there a minimum resistance needed, and anything larger works just fine?

Do we have any electrical engineers or electronics guru's here?

I was told it should be 7.5k, but 10 will work (this was from a guy who did his R1, and R6). The fact that I have what I do in there, that it works flawlessly, and didn't cost me a dime, is even better.

But don't you agree that the "K" part is now getting confusing?

I'm going with the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' thing.

SheWolf wrote:

I'm going with the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' thing.

Totally agree with your position, but I'd like to know from somebody who "knows" how much difference that K might make.

There's a difference between 7.5 and 7.5k.

Is that K important or not?

Can a 10 work? What about 10k?

Does it possibly effect the bike at all?

motokid wrote:

SheWolf wrote:

I'm going with the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' thing.

Totally agree with your position, but I'd like to know from somebody who "knows" how much difference that K might make.

There's a difference between 7.5 and 7.5k.

Is that K important or not?

Can a 10 work? What about 10k?

Does it possibly effect the bike at all?

Admittedly, I'm no EE but I do remember some of the basics since we do this all the time when we remove the skip shift (CAGS) solenoid from GM manual trannies.

Resistance does matter, as does the wattage.

Too low a resistance (a resistor turns electricity into heat) and the resistor will burn out. Too high and it won't pass enough the current and the MIL will stay on.

I'd say 7.5k ohm half watt resistor would work but I'm sure that a 75 ohm resistor wouldn't.

Here's some tech on using resistors to fool OBD for GM trannys:

http://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html



BTW the color bands on a resistor indicate the resistance and tolerance... definitely out there somewhere in internet land.

From an electronics whiz friend of mine, whom I picked his brain about this:

Quote :

"All that matters is the fact it supressed the voltage enough to make it think the servo is still there. If all its doing is being a dummy for a circut then it shouldent really matter just as long as its suppressing it like it is. 7.5k=7500 ohms. 7.5 is just that, 7.5 ohms. Using a 10k resistor will not hurt it any, due to the fact that as long as the circuit is closed, it's sensing that the 'servo is still there and working.' The only thing to worry about is if the resistor gets warm, it could overload and pop, therefore throw a code.

Well, I ran the bike, felt the resistor and it's certainly not like that to any degree, so he said I am safe. Considering I've run this bitch WFO on the highway and everything in between for well over 2 years now without a fault, I'm a happy camper.

And which one is theoretically going to potentially generate more heat?

He said he wouldn't suggest going lower than the one I'm using. Mine isn't even remotely warm.

zdenton wrote:

I took out the part that your crudely drawn red arrow is pointing at. I had to as I could not disconnect the cables from it. Lack of knowledge I guess. Yes, the servo was still plugged into the back of the EXUP, "I think that is what it was plugged into". I have not plugged the servo cable back in as I was hoping the resistors will fix both error codes 17 and 18. I had error code 18 at first because I disconnected the cables running into something "either EXUP or servo motor I do not know" as mentioned earlier. This morning when I found the cable you had posted pictures of the error code 17 came up after I unplugged that cable. I could plug this back in, but would then not have anywhere to put the resistors. I need to find the resistors I think Radioshack or Circuit City. After this, I have to figure out how to install my HMF programmer. I hope when all is said and done I can get rid of that stupid CEL!

Looks like some of your confusion is from terminology.

EXUP = The name of the entire exhaust power valve system. There are 3 basic parts.
1. the EXUP Valve located in the exhaust.
2. The EXUP Servo located under the battery.
3. The EXUP Cables. Connect the Servo to the Valve.

Both the valve and the servo have a pulley that the cables connect to.
Disconnecting the cables from the pulley doesn't throw a code.

The servo has a plug on the back which you recently found
When you pull that plug, you get a code 17.

The 18 code is for a stuck EXUP, 17 is for an EXUP open circuit.

Whatever you did when you removed the servo pulley is causing the servo to stick or at least think it's stuck.

*Electrical wires are usually not called cables, and in this case, since there are regular cables (which I think you may have called wires at one time), it can get pretty confusing.


SheWolf,
Sorry for kicking the hornets nest on the whole resistor thing.
I was just confused by what I was seeing and what was posted.
7.5k is the one you want.

Yeah it's ok. I thought I had what I asked for and never gave it a second thought. I now have 2, 7.5k resistors in the even this 7.5 on bails on me.

The Radio Shack guy told me 7.5k is an odd size, so I used a 10. All working good so far. It's a good thing too, because I have no idea what any of it means.

Sarah

greer wrote:

The Radio Shack guy told me 7.5k is an odd size, so I used a 10. All working good so far. It's a good thing too, because I have no idea what any of it means.

Sarah

10 or 10k?