Error Code 18: Stuck servo motor

zdenton wrote:

I found the plug this morning. Thank you so much for the pictures they made all the difference in the world. I removed the plug from the back of the servo and it looks just like the one from the pictures. When I turned my machine on though I had an error code 17, " unconnected or short circuit of the servo". Will this go away with the resistors. I also really need to know exactly what resistors I need. After reading all the post, I am confused on that one. I really hope I can get read of these error codes. Please help!

check the later posts on shewolf's resistor mod thread.. just need a resistor. You might try other ones. It's a simple mod with no repercussions. It won't hurt anything to run it with the cel on, but a resistor will turn it off.
good luck!
scotty

motokid wrote:

greer wrote:

The Radio Shack guy told me 7.5k is an odd size, so I used a 10. All working good so far. It's a good thing too, because I have no idea what any of it means.

Sarah

10 or 10k?

Evidently, the answer to that is 'yes'.

So shewolf had a 7.5 ohm resistor in all this time.. the error code check is even simpler than we originally thought.

I don't see any way it would get hot.. there is not enough current in it for that. It is mostly a software switch.. looking for a range of acceptable values. Maybe it's only checking for continuity. Perhaps a straight jumper wire would also do the trick. But for anyone confused by all this speculation, go with the proven winners. 7.5, 7.5k, or 10k. Also, like shewolf said, hook up the old exup first to clear the cel, then turn it off & do the resistor mod.

Ok, I got the 10k ohm resistor as that was the only thing Radioshak had. After, plugging the resistor into the existing plug nothing happened. I did just like what was in the picture, but I still have the CEL. I am way frustrated and beginning to wish I had not put on the pipe. I also bought the HMF fuel programmer, but cannot figure out where the plug to the fuel injector is so I can take it out and replace it with the fuel programmer. This all sucks. I have a brand new 2011 WR250R with the CEL light on and error codes 17 and 18. Will this resistor work, and how do I install this HMF programmer. I need to know where the fuel injector is and what to do with this resistor. Is the resistor the wrong size, or what? please help Zac

The connections for the fuel programmer are under the gas tank on the seat side of the cylinder.

You have to remove gas tank to get to connectors.
Not completely disconnect, but unbolt and be able to lift and/or twist out of the way.

You should probably try to fix one problem at a time right now though.

Work towards getting your error code issues fixed.

Then, add the programmer.


Are you sure you got the resistor wires in the right slots on the servo connector plug?


before you try the next thing I think you might try - wait for someone else to chime in.....

I would disconnect the battery completely and wait for a few minutes before reconnecting.
Sort of an electrical reboot so to speak.

Not sure is that's a reasonable path forward at this point, but perhaps some others here have some thoughts.

zdenton wrote:

Ok, I got the 10k ohm resistor as that was the only thing Radioshak had. After, plugging the resistor into the existing plug nothing happened. I did just like what was in the picture, but I still have the CEL. I am way frustrated and beginning to wish I had not put on the pipe. I also bought the HMF fuel programmer, but cannot figure out where the plug to the fuel injector is so I can take it out and replace it with the fuel programmer. This all sucks. I have a brand new 2011 WR250R with the CEL light on and error codes 17 and 18. Will this resistor work, and how do I install this HMF programmer. I need to know where the fuel injector is and what to do with this resistor. Is the resistor the wrong size, or what? please help Zac

Hey Zac.
1. plug in the exup, turn on the bike so the cel goes off.
2. turn off the bike, remove the exup, install the resistor.
3. turn on the bike, cel should be off.

I don't know why the cel does not go off by itself with just the resistor, but this was shewolf's experience as well.

Here's my programmer install:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t2247-fmf-programmer-install

I did move the programmer under the seat, when i opened up the airbox some more.

I thought the fmf came with some pics & instructions.. not real clear, i suppose.. mine probably aren't any better.

For step one you mean the servo right?

And he was getting an error code WITH the servo plugged in.

Not sure if that's part of the problem or not.

As Shewolf mentioned before, it sounds like Zac may have gutted/disabled his servo motor. It may have to be put back in proper working order before it will clear the code...??

Sarah

greer wrote:

As Shewolf mentioned before, it sounds like Zac may have gutted/disabled his servo motor. It may have to be put back in proper working order before it will clear the code...??

Sarah

Right. This is probably the reason he was getting an error code 18 while the servo was still connected.

That's why I'm wondering if disconnecting the battery and hoping for an electrical reset might work.

Sweet!!!!! You people rule, and I am a dumba**. I plugged the EXUP or servo back in, "do not know which one", unplugged the battery, and installed the resistor. No more error code 17, 18, and the CEL is gone! Now the HMF fuel programmer. All of this sounds way too much. Should I have my dealer install this or try on my own. You have seen what I went through to get to this point, so I am not sure I should take this one on myself. HMF claims plug and play, but in the recent posts it seems that there is more to it than just plugging something in and taking off. Suggestions please, and again thank all of you so much. Zac

Dude....ride your bike for at least a good week before you do anything else at this point.

Have some fun and blow the frustration out of your head.

You can do the fuel programmer.

I'd just wait for a few days and have some fun on the thing first.

Glad your code issues have been solved.

I am a worry-wort so know my concern is do you think the CEL or error codes 17 and 18 will come back, and if so what should I do. I called the Yamaha dealer and they said they could install the fuel-programmer. Should I let them do it at 35 dollars an hour or try myself. If I should do it myself can anyone help? i.e. pictures and clear and concise instructions such as the ones from Motokid. Zac

You CAN do it yourself.

I'd just wait for a bit and make sure the error codes are gone for more than just a few hours.


Ride the bike good for a little bit.

We can walk you through hooking up the programmer.


Like I said - it's not really removing the gas tank, just getting it so you can lift it out of the way for about 5 minutes.

Literally about 3 screws.

Once that's done you can easily see the connector you need to remove on the throttle body.

I think you should also get used to feeling the bike in stock trim before you install the fuel programmer so that you can get a notion of the difference it will add.

I'm with motokid, you can do this yourself. It was scary as all get out for me, too. Take a little time, study a few more of the threads provided for you, learn as you go. Don't be afraid to ask questions; as you can see, we love to talk bikes.

Sarah

If the error codes do come back then what? Zac

rydnseek wrote:

Here's my programmer install:

https://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t2247-fmf-programmer-install

Check out rydnseek's thread. It shows pictures of where the connections are made under the gas tank.

It truly is plug-n-play - but more like unplug-plug-plug-n-play.

zdenton wrote:

If the error codes do come back then what? Zac

I doubt they will come back.
There are a bunch of people running the same mod with no issues. The only reason you had problems was because you went a little overboard on the disassembly and did something to the servo that caused the 18 code.

Did you tape up the connector so the resistor doesn't fall out?

It pretty much is a plug an display of sorts, yes...if you just intend on riding it with the stock settings. You CAN install this yourself, just take your time and it's pretty straight forward. The fun begins when you start tweaking the settings; there's quite an array of things you can play with settings wise. Rule of thumb though, just remember what ones you do first, and if it's worse, put them back to stock settings (which is usually 0.5 all the way across). For now though, if you are intent of putting the programmer in, get it in and ride it for a bit just to get the feel of it.

skidmarx wrote:

zdenton wrote:

If the error codes do come back then what? Zac

I doubt they will come back.
There are a bunch of people running the same mod with no issues. The only reason you had problems was because you went a little overboard on the disassembly and did something to the servo that caused the 18 code.

Did you tape up the connector so the resistor doesn't fall out?

Zac,

Tape it up really, really well. I let mine get wet; it threw the code and I had to dig the servo motor out of the junk box so I could plug it back in and clear the code.

Sarah

I have put around an hour on my machine since the resistor trick with no issues. Thanks Again. Also, have decided to try an install the hmf programmer myself tonight and tomorrow. Should I start a new post, or can we continue to work off of this one? I think I can get off all the panels necessary to install the programmer, but it is the two connections I am concerned about. Do you think the current programming will suffice, or should I play around with it? I bought this thing so that the rich/lean ratio will not damage my machine. This leads me to another question: did I really need this programmer? As mentioned earlier, I do not want to damage my WR and that is why I bought the programmer. So that the new pipe will not effect my motor. Any thoughts here would also be appreciated. Zac

The programmer definitely helps power and safety for the motor, but I don't think anyone's popped a motor by going too lean yet. Hasn't posted about it anyways lol.

The factory settings are a decent start. You bought the FMF programmer right? It comes with a nice instruction manual telling you what each setting means and does.

To do the mod, you need an 8mm socket, a 5mm allen, and a small and large phillips screw driver.

First, take off the seat (2 8mm bolts underneath the seat towards the rear).

Second, take off the side panels using the 5mm allen. Use a small phillips to undo the negative (black) battery terminal.

Take off the front shrouds. On each shroud there's a large phillips screw on the tank and two 5mm allens on the front of the motorcycle. The black cover on the left is supported by a rubber post on the bottom, some wiggling and it should come right off.

Loosen or remove the tank. Remove the 3 5mm allen bolts holding the tank down (make sure you use a good allen key and patience, they're in there good with loctite but for once the bolt heads seem strong). You can either remove the tank now by uncliping it from the wiring harness (just press the clip and pull) and removing the fuel line (slide the connecter out, press the blue button, and wiggle, takes a bit to come off but don't godzilla it either) or just move it to the side. Removing the wiring will give you a good amount of room to move the tank out of the way with the fuel hose still attached, so you can always slide it up out of the way and have a friend hold it out of the way or secure it to the handlebar with a hangar or something. If you do remove the tank, make sure you set it some place where it can't fall over and dent or worse break the fuel nozzle off the pump. I used a handy snow bank since I did my install in winter, or a spare lawn chair in warmer months.

Look down at the top of the motor. Start at the spark plug and follow a straight line towards the back of the bike. You'll see the throttle body with a fuel injector sticking out of the top. Unclip the fuel injector's plug, and plug it into the corresponding connector on the programmer. Plug the other plug on the programmer to the factory wiring harness. Its now installed in-line with the fuel injector and ECU and can modify the signals to the injector to give you more fuel. The plugs only go together one way, so its pretty much impossible to do wrong. They can be a little tight to click together but will with some effort (again don't go crazy). I velcro'd my programmer to the top of the airbox where it would be out of the way and protected.

Run the wiring so that it stays out of the way of the seat when it gets reinstalled (pretty sure I went under the chassis brace where the fuel tank bolts down.

Run the ground wire (has the small loop) down to the negative terminal on the battery. Reconnect the battery. Reinstall the fuel tank. Before you bolt it down, turn the key to on but don't start the bike. The progammer should flash and do the startup stuff as indicated in the manual and you should hear the fuel pump prime. If not, turn the key off and double check your connections. If everything checks out, start the motor and follow the instructions to set the programmer or just watch the lights flash and dance. If you're running, its working.

Put the bike back together and go for a ride, do the happy dance!

Sounds more complicated than it is, really. You're only removing 13 bolts, including the battery terminal, and one, maybe two, electrical connections. Shouldn't take more than an hour, tops. I could probably do it in 10-15mins but I've had the bike apart a lot and am used to working on it. Its really really really simple and short of doing something silly like taking a knife to the wiring harness or hulk-smashing the electrical connectors there's not much that can go wrong.

Just making sure you have this from HMF's site:

http://hmfracing.com/misc/instructions/Optimizer_Install.pdf

I bought a used FMF programmer and run it with the default settings; I've never touched a button on it. I always had trouble programming the VCR, so didn't really feel like I should mess with fuel injection.



Sarah

skierd gave a good install tutorial, so i'll just add that you don't really *have* to change the default settings. From what i understand, it comes optimized for an open pipe.. the fmf programmer comes set for an fmf pipe, iow. Other pipes should be quite close.. close enough that it won't matter. You can ride it for a few months or years, then tweak the settings if you want to. If you're not popping on deceleration, or have other symptoms of too rich or too lean, it's probably in an ok range.

But buttons are meant to be pushed by mens' hands, so you'll want to push them at some point. You can read about the various settings people use, & the extraordinary results they get with those settings. You can then come up with your own custom settings, & one-up the others' claims with even more amazing feats of motorcycling power. From what i can tell, that is the main purpose of the programmer.

good luck with the install, & tell us all about it!
scotty

I cant find where the male plug goes into the OEM wiring harness please help, as I am so close.

zdenton wrote:

I cant find where the male plug goes into the OEM wiring harness please help, as I am so close.

One plug from your efi unit plugs into fuel injector.

The Yamaha plug you removed from fuel injector should fit into other plug from your efi unit.

It completes a circuit so to speak.


(assuming your efi unit connects like FmF and Attitude Industries programmers)

What model programmer are you installing?

Be specific please.