The Official FI Mapping Area

looks like a sweet price
I get stuff shipped to a place in Ogdensburg NY and save a ton on shipping
you just need to pay taxes at the border
plus it's a nice ride about an hour by back roads if you dont get too adventourious
I've been thinking about the fuel programer option too

My wife took her first long ride on her 250x today. It has a q4 pipe, fmf programer set on the settings it came with, no other modificatiopns except suspension. Her first tank was 46mpg, this was babying the bike at 55mph or less. On the second tank I told her to not use 6th gear. Mileage went up to 55mpg. What should I set the programer for the best mileage. I do not think power is an issue as Lisa said she never had it past half throttle. With the size of the tank would like to get 60mpg. What else should I do?

I finally had time yesterday to program my fmf programmer and take it for a test ride around the block,,I used 3,5,1,8,4,4 to start,,I ran out of time but I'm going to try some different numbers soon.I could feel a difference on my short test ride.I seemed to hit the rev limiter sooner,,is that normal ??................................I want to thank everyone who has helped me with my questions,,I was going to pay a shop to do all my mods but the more I read here the more confidence I had to do it myself....I am going to pay a shop to install my new sprockets and chain and I'm done..

Wat to go Jay! You could install the sprockets and chain yourself; it's not that hard to do. Even if one doesn't have a jack of sorts, a milk crate is a handy tool. Either way, let us know how it all turns out. As for the rev limiter, mine did that as well. It grabs the power band a lot quicker which I found very handy when trail riding.

Neatest thing I found with the pipe and programmer is the bike's comfortable cruising speed went up by a few mph's, probably because its no longer gasping for air. MPG's haven't seemed to be affected too much, fuel light comes on at about the same time as stock if I take into account that for some reason I seem to be riding harder and faster... must be all that sweet music from the pipe...

Doing your own work always feels good. You've saved some cash, learned some new skills, and made something you enjoy better, win win win.

A post I copied from the "WRR GeneralDiscussion -> What is the lowest price for a FMF Fuel Controller" thread. Motokid describes the Attitude Industries controller installation.

http://www.tunewithattitude.com/EFI_controllers.php

From motokid:



That's what you get. In a box. Nothing else.

It is a fairly simple hook up though.

Black wire to battery ground. White wire with connector is useless unless you have turbo. Tube is a breather vent. One connector to throttle body under gas tank and other connector is for the original one you pull off throttle body.

That's it.

Operating and tuning instructions are on A.I. website.

Plus there's the direct line to owner. And Shewolf.

My AI GEN3.2 arrived yesterday, w00t!

Can anyone suggest starting settings for bone stock WRX?

Really looking forward to losing the hesitation on my WRX, much more noticable riding in to work today because fresh in my mind is 1,400 kms last weekend on my Triumph 675 Street Triple R. The stock mapping is perfect on that bike, instant response everywhere, pulls hard in every gear from 4K RPM. I'll see how the WRX feels with the AI dialed in - I really wanted to wait until warrantee was up to rip out the AIS, do airbox flapper, and add a pipe.

1.5, 2.5, 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5

Try that and see what you think.

Connected it up, accidentally touched ground wire to positive first.

Connected it to ground, turned ignition on:

Alternating #1 (yellow) & #8 (red) for about 6 flashes, then nothing.

Any ideas?

There were firm 'clicks' when I seated the connectors.

Help!

Thanks,
Greg.

As long as you don't get alternating flashing lights with 1 & 8 when you have the bike running, you're fine. If you get them flashing when it runs, shut it down, disconnect everything and then reconnect it again. Mine flashed 1 & 8 before I fired it up; that's normal...it's when it flashes AFTER you fire it up that something wasn't connecting properly. Let us know how it goes.

I bought a gen 3.2 through the flea market and was also puzzled by the set-up -which is different to the gen 3 set-up video on the Attitude website.

With ignition on
no.3 green flash, no.1 green flash, no.8 red flash, 1, 8, 1, 8
then no lights, push mode & nothing happens

With engine running
no.3 green flash, then scolls thru 1 to 8 green flash, 4 cycles
no. 1 slow flash, I presume this is standby
push mode & program

I was trying to use Shewolf's setup 3.5, 4.5, 1.5, 8, 4, 4.5 but I was having trouble distinguishing between green & yellow flashes & each time I seemed to get different sequences. I gave up & set them all to 4. It has improved the on/off jerkiness & increased the cruising speed.

If you are a legit purchaser you should ask Attitude for set-up instructions & please post them here.

Yes, I purchased directly from AI.
I will call Derek at AI on Monday and ask if the set up is different.
If it is different I'll ask how customers are supposed to install and setup without instructions.

Shewolf, thanks for your help. Have you heard if setup is different for GEN 3.2 vs 3.0?

Thanks...

AFAIK, they are supposed to be the same. Derek's real good about answering his cell, even on weekends. I've called him a few times to have questions answered, on weekends, and he's always been good about it. I haven't played with the new Gen's...I know with my setup that the yellow is pretty bright and you have to make sure you press within 3 seconds during programming or it will return to default.

Success! Bike is running with 1.5, 2.5, 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5
When I fired it up it was very nearly already set at that, only one mode was off by 0.5.

FYI, after first having the black wire hooked up to positive (it was my week for doing really stupid things, don't ask ) for a few seconds the bike was apparently flooded (while hooked up heard some electrical things going on with ignition off.) Uninstalled the AI controller and bike did not start. Let bike sit for a day, recharged battery, did not start first 2 attempts, but fired right up with partial throttle on while starting (confirming I had mildly flooded it.)

Now happy that I had not fooked up the bike, I reinstalled the controller and it fired right up.
As described by Shewolf, with ignition on but engine not running, get alternating #1 & #8 lights.
Then fire up bike, immediatly goes to all scrolling greens as described on AI demo.
Scrolled through the 6 modes, exactly as described in the AI demo.

Happy now , I'll go for a shakedown ride later today.

Sorry andy mac, because my GEN 3.2 worked exactly as the AI demo, perhaps yours is damaged?

Glad to hear you got it running! Let us know how it feels when you get some good ride time on it with that on!

deerHater wrote:

Bike is running with 1.5, 2.5, 1.0, 8.0, 4.0, 4.5
Happy now , I'll go for a shakedown ride later today.

Why did I wait so long to get an EFI controller? Engine feels so much better now. Took it up to an indicated 140 (87.5 MPH) with ease
If you do only one mod, GET a controller!

Now you're talking.
The next time you read about somebody saying they're not sure about getting one, let 'em know how you feel about it. :)

Alright so I've had the FMF prgrammer sitting at the stock setting for a while now. And I think it's time to sart using it to it's full potential. I've read a lot of values that you guys are using. And I'm iterested in trying some. My problem is that i'm a mile above sea level and the elevation i ride at is anywhere between 5.5K - 10k above sea level. with the most common being around 7K.

What are some of the values you think i should run? Remember air is much thinner up here and our bikes tend to run a lil lean.

Here are my mods:

FMF Mega-bomb
FMF Q4
Stock air filter
Gearing 12/43
AIS mod
Exup removed
Flapper Valve mod.
Servo resistor mod

Thanx for the input.

Try this: 3, 5.5, 3.5, 8, 7.5, 7.5

See how that feels to begin with and let us know what you think.

Explain to me the last three numbers again please.

#4) is useless and means nothing unless you have turbo or nos

#5 & #6) why would you have these numbers higher????

They define when your acceleration and full throttle settings come on right?
A higher number means it takes a tick longer to apply the setting you defined on lights number 2 & 3

If you want more kick don't you want 5 & 6 to have a low number? Like 0.5 or 1?

Does the #4 light mean anything at all? Why not leave that a 0.5?

#4 = green/blue. Used for the turbo'd bikes/sleds, but on our un-turboe'd bikes, it's the
point where the RPM range, when in cruise mode, fuel is turned on.

#5 = yellow/blue. The adjustment of delay, in acceleration mode, when the
fuel turns on.

#6 = red/blue. The adjustment of delay, in WOT mode, when the
fuel turns on.

We do use #4. When explained to me, the last 3 numbers can affect bikes at different altitudes. I merely offered up a base set of numbers to start with, and being he's higher up in the ozone layer than I am, one can try going with the higher numbers. In the end, it's a starting point; if he finds it isn't responding the way he likes it, one can go with a lower setting. He could also try 4.5 on the last 2, it's merely a starting point.

SheWolf wrote:

Try this: 3, 5.5, 3.5, 8, 7.5, 7.5

See how that feels to begin with and let us know what you think.

thanx as always.

Just out of curiosity where did you come up with those numbers and why? Ya, i'm kinda dumb when it comes to stuff like this.

A few ppl have toyed with different settings, and then kept what they felt was the best in responsiveness. I have been watching what others have their programmers set between the AI and the FMF, which both use pretty much the same parameters. The one I tossed out was from Steve Eakus, who's done some extensive homework with his 08 on many different levels. He seems to be happy with that setting.

Quote :

My problem is that i'm a mile above sea level and the elevation i ride
at is anywhere between 5.5K - 10k above sea level. with the most common
being around 7K.

The ECU compensate for altitude, as well as air temperature and other factors. Here is a list of the sensors:
Coolant temperature sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Intake air pressure sensor
Intake air temperature sensor
Speed sensor
Throttle position sensor
Lean angle sensor

So what do you need a programmer for? Because the ECU has been programmed to stay on the lean side, for emissions. You use a programmer to add fuel to offset the lean bias. At any and all elevations.

Quote :

What are some of the values you think i should run? Remember air is much thinner up here and our bikes tend to run a lil lean.

Actually, non-FI bikes run richer at higher elevations, but need to be jetted leaner. Unless they are too lean to start with, then you go richer. And our bikes which compensate for elevation, will not run richer.

ramz... so should i go with the settings that Miss Wolf suggested?